The plan on the board below, as a file that opens in Blok Sessions, plus seven short emails that walk you through it: what each session is for, when to add weight, where people go wrong, and how to read the tests at the end.
Weeks 1 to 3 build, weeks 4 to 6 intensify, week 7 deloads and tests: 27 sessions, 7 short mobility days, the rest is rest
Max hangs with added weight, weighted pull-ups and limit bouldering: the protocols with evidence behind them, with sets, rest and timers already set
Two tests on day one and on the last Saturday, so you see what changed
Seven emails over the seven weeks, then at most one a month
For boulderers who already train. It assumes you've hangboarded before
The plan
The plan7 weeks · Strength, built then intensified, then a deload and the tests
Period
Week
Mon
Tue
Wed
Thu
Fri
Sat
Sun
Strength · build
Week 1
Wall75 min
Finger recruitment warm-upWarm-up · 15 min
8 boulder pyramidWall · 60 min
Done.
Rest
Done.
Off-wall40 min
Weighted pull-upsStrength · 20 min
Core tension primerStrength · 10 min
Antagonist maintenanceStrength · 10 min
Done.
Active15 min
Scapular maintenanceStrength · 10 min
World's greatest stretchMobility · 5 min
Done.
Wall91 min
Specific rampWarm-up · 15 min
Max hangs (added weight)Strength · 5×10s
Structured hard repeatsWall · 60 min
Done.
Wall70 min
Movement quality warm-upWarm-up · 15 min
Smell the handWall · 25 min
Feet cut after every moveWall · 20 min
Cooldown resetMobility · 10 min
Done.
Rest
Done.
Week 2
Wall91 min
Finger recruitment warm-upWarm-up · 15 min
Max hangs (added weight)Strength · 5×10s
Progressive tenWall · 60 min
Done.
Rest
Done.
Off-wall40 min
Weighted pull-upsStrength · 20 min
Core tension primerStrength · 10 min
Antagonist maintenanceStrength · 10 min
Done.
Active15 min
Scapular maintenanceStrength · 10 min
World's greatest stretchMobility · 5 min
Done.
Wall91 min
Specific rampWarm-up · 15 min
Max hangs (added weight)Strength · 5×10s
Structured hard repeatsWall · 60 min
Done.
Wall75 min
Movement quality warm-upWarm-up · 15 min
Smell the handWall · 25 min
Climb with full-body tensionWall · 25 min
Cooldown resetMobility · 10 min
Skipped.
Rest
Done.
Week 3
Wall91 min
Finger recruitment warm-upWarm-up · 15 min
Max hangs (added weight)Strength · 5×10s
8 boulder pyramidWall · 60 min
Done.
Rest
Done.
Today40 min
Weighted pull-upsStrength · 20 min
Core tension primerStrength · 10 min
Antagonist maintenanceStrength · 10 min
Active15 min
Scapular maintenanceStrength · 10 min
World's greatest stretchMobility · 5 min
Wall91 min
Specific rampWarm-up · 15 min
Max hangs (added weight)Strength · 5×10s
Structured hard repeatsWall · 60 min
Wall75 min
Movement quality warm-upWarm-up · 15 min
Smell the handWall · 25 min
3 second ruleWall · 25 min
Cooldown resetMobility · 10 min
Rest
Strength · intensify
Week 4
Wall91 min
Finger recruitment warm-upWarm-up · 15 min
Max hangs (added weight)Strength · 5×10s
Hard projectingWall · 60 min
Rest
Off-wall42 min
Weighted pull-upsStrength · 20 min
Offset pull-upsStrength · 12 min
Antagonist maintenanceStrength · 10 min
Active19 min
Scapular maintenanceStrength · 10 min
Couch stretch (hip flexors)Mobility · 4×45s
Pancake stretchMobility · 5×45s
Wall70 min
Specific rampWarm-up · 15 min
Minimum edge hangsStrength · 4×10s
Limit movement biteWall · 20 min
Climb with full-body tensionWall · 25 min
Wall55 min
Specific rampWarm-up · 15 min
Jump into lock-offWall · 25 min
L-sitStrength · 6×15s
Cooldown resetMobility · 10 min
Rest
Week 5
Wall91 min
Finger recruitment warm-upWarm-up · 15 min
Max hangs (added weight)Strength · 5×10s
Hard projectingWall · 60 min
Rest
Off-wall42 min
Weighted pull-upsStrength · 20 min
Explosive pull-upsStrength · 12 min
Antagonist maintenanceStrength · 10 min
Active19 min
Scapular maintenanceStrength · 10 min
Couch stretch (hip flexors)Mobility · 4×45s
Pancake stretchMobility · 5×45s
Wall70 min
Specific rampWarm-up · 15 min
Minimum edge hangsStrength · 4×10s
Limit movement biteWall · 20 min
Climb with full-body tensionWall · 25 min
Wall70 min
Specific rampWarm-up · 15 min
Dyno practiceWall · 20 min
PowerslapWall · 20 min
L-sitStrength · 6×15s
Cooldown resetMobility · 10 min
Rest
Week 6
Wall91 min
Finger recruitment warm-upWarm-up · 15 min
Max hangs (added weight)Strength · 5×10s
Hard projectingWall · 60 min
Rest
Off-wall42 min
Weighted pull-upsStrength · 20 min
Explosive pull-upsStrength · 12 min
Antagonist maintenanceStrength · 10 min
Active19 min
Scapular maintenanceStrength · 10 min
Couch stretch (hip flexors)Mobility · 4×45s
Pancake stretchMobility · 5×45s
Wall75 min
Specific rampWarm-up · 15 min
Minimum edge hangsStrength · 4×10s
Limit movement biteWall · 20 min
Squeeze bouldersWall · 30 min
Wall70 min
Specific rampWarm-up · 15 min
Jump into lock-offWall · 25 min
PowerslapWall · 20 min
Cooldown resetMobility · 10 min
Rest
Deload
Week 7
Wall45 min
Easy volume warm-upWarm-up · 15 min
Slow-motion climbingWall · 20 min
Forearm flushMobility · 5×1:30
Rest
Active20 min
Hip circlesMobility · 5 min
Deep squat holdMobility · 5×45s
Scapular maintenanceStrength · 10 min
Wall55 min
Movement quality warm-upWarm-up · 15 min
Circuit climbingWall · 30 min
Cooldown resetMobility · 10 min
Rest
Wall30 min
General climbing warm-upWarm-up · 15 min
Finger recruitment warm-upWarm-up · 15 min
Rest
Drag a block from the tray onto any day, or select it and pick a day.
Questions
Is it really free?
Yes. The plan, the emails and the app's planner cost nothing. Pro, which is €2.99 a month or €24.99 once, adds the plan generator and guided sessions, and this plan doesn't need either.
What do I get, exactly?
A .blokplan file attached to the first email. On an iPhone with Blok Sessions, tap it and the whole seven weeks are in the app, every block with its sets, rest and timer. Without the app, the plan's on this page and you can rebuild it in the browser planner.
How much time does it take?
About five hours a week: two wall sessions of around 90 minutes, one off-wall session of 40, a third wall session of about an hour, and 15 minutes of mobility at home. The deload week is half that.
I'm on Android.
The file needs the iPhone app, but the emails and the plan on this page work for anyone, and the browser planner works on Android with a free account.
Who is it for?
Boulderers who already train on purpose and have hangboarded before. The hangs use added weight on a 20 mm edge from week one. If that's new to you, this isn't the right block yet.
Get the strength block by email.
The plan above as a file for the app, and seven short emails that walk you through it. Then at most one a month.