Rested hard-move singles
3-4 single hard moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.
- Slot
- On the wall
- Focus
- Power
- Time
- 30 min
- Intensity
- Max
- Injury risk
- High
- Intervals
- 6 rounds, 3:00 rest
- Equipment
- Boulders, Training board
How to do it
Pick 3-4 single moves or two-move links at your limit. Rest 3-5 minutes between every attempt so each one is fully fresh. Move to a new move when your power, accuracy, or skin starts to fade. About 6-8 attempts fit in 30 minutes.
High injury risk. Only do this fully warmed up, rested and injury-free, and stop at the first sign of pain in your fingers or elbows. Training is at your own risk.
Who it’s for
Pure power. Long rests and single moves mean every attempt is at full output, which is the only way to train the top end.
Common mistakes
- Resting less than three minutes. The long rest is the protocol. Cutting it turns this into a power endurance session with fewer benefits.
- Moves that are too easy. At your limit. If you’re doing them every time, they aren’t singles.
- Grinding on one move. Move on when power, accuracy or skin starts to fade.
- Doing it at the end of a session. First, always, after a full warm-up.
How to progress
Harder moves, not more attempts. Six to eight attempts in thirty minutes is the right density, and if you’re getting through many more than that, the rests are too short.
When it fits
The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.
- Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.
- Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.
Related blocks
Start with a ready-made block
A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.