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Fingerboard ramp ladder

6 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge, a bit harder each time, 1 min rest.

Slot
Warm-up
Focus
Finger strength
Time
6 min
Intensity
Moderate
Injury risk
Moderate
Intervals
6 × 10s on, 1:00 off
Equipment
Edge 20mm, Timer

How to do it

On a 20 mm hangboard edge, start with an easy hang, taking weight off with a foot on a chair or a pulley. Hang 10 seconds, rest 1 minute, and make each hang a little harder than the last, for 6 hangs. The last one should feel strong but well below max - you should finish feeling ready, not tired.

Who it’s for

Anyone starting a finger strength session, and climbers who arrive at the wall stiff. Six hangs that get gradually harder prepare the tendons far better than jumping straight onto your working edge.

Common mistakes

  • Starting too hard. The first hang should feel almost easy. If hang one is a struggle, the ramp has nowhere to go.
  • Finishing at maximum. The last hang stays well below max. You should finish ready to train, not already tired.
  • Cutting the rest. A full minute between hangs, even at the easy end.
  • Doing it cold. Some easy climbing or general movement comes first. This is a finger ramp, not a whole warm-up.

How to progress

Keep the shape and shift the whole ladder up as you get stronger, so the last hang stays at the same relative effort. If you’re heading into max hangs afterwards, finish the ramp at roughly the load you’ll start those with.

When it fits

The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.

  • Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
  • Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.
  • Power Endurance Keep your power through one hard move after another.
  • Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.

Start with a ready-made block

A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.