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Finger maintenance

After warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.

Strength
Finger strength
9 min
Moderate intensity
Moderate injury risk
20 mm edge, Timer

A 20 mm edge is a hangboard edge about as deep as the pad of your fingertip.

How to do it

Only after a thorough warm-up. On a 20 mm edge, do 5 hangs of 10 seconds with both hands, at a load that feels moderately hard but well short of your max (put a foot on a chair to take weight off if needed). Rest 2 minutes between hangs. Every hang should feel crisp and strong.

Run it now

The same timer as the app: a five-second get-ready, then every round and rest counted down with a beep. Keep this page open while you train.

Finger maintenance

0:00 / 8:55

Ready

8:55

5 rounds

After warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.

5
rounds
10s
work
2:00
rest
8:55
total

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Who it's for

Keeping finger strength during a block aimed elsewhere, or during a deload. Moderate load, five hangs, no fatigue.

Common mistakes

  • Turning it into max hangs. Moderately hard, well short of max. That's what keeps it cheap.
  • Skipping the warm-up. Only after a thorough one, every time.
  • Doing it on top of a full finger session. It replaces one, it doesn't add to one.

How to progress

It shouldn't. If you want to build, use max hangs or repeaters instead; this is the version that costs you nothing.

When it fits

The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.

  • Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.

  • Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.

  • Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.

  • Power Endurance Keep your power through one hard move after another.

  • Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.