Finger maintenance
After warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.
- Slot
- Strength
- Focus
- Finger strength
- Time
- 9 min
- Intensity
- Moderate
- Injury risk
- Moderate
- Intervals
- 5 × 10s on, 2:00 off
- Equipment
- Edge 20mm, Timer
How to do it
Only after a thorough warm-up. On a 20 mm edge, do 5 hangs of 10 seconds with both hands, at a load that feels moderately hard but well short of your max (put a foot on a chair to take weight off if needed). Rest 2 minutes between hangs. Every hang should feel crisp and strong.
Who it’s for
Keeping finger strength during a block aimed elsewhere, or during a deload. Moderate load, five hangs, no fatigue.
Common mistakes
- Turning it into max hangs. Moderately hard, well short of max. That’s what keeps it cheap.
- Skipping the warm-up. Only after a thorough one, every time.
- Doing it on top of a full finger session. It replaces one, it doesn’t add to one.
How to progress
It shouldn’t. If you want to build, use max hangs or repeaters instead; this is the version that costs you nothing.
When it fits
The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.
- Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.
- Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
- Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.
- Power Endurance Keep your power through one hard move after another.
- Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.
Related blocks
Start with a ready-made block
A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.