Finger recruitment warm-up
After easy climbing, 4-6 hangs of 5-10 s building to about 80% effort, 2 min rest.
- Slot
- Warm-up
- Focus
- Finger strength
- Time
- 15 min
- Intensity
- Moderate
- Injury risk
- Moderate
- Intervals
- 4 × 5s on, 2:00 off
- Equipment
- Edge 20mm, Timer
How to do it
After some easy climbing, do 4-6 hangs of 5-10 seconds on a hangboard or board, starting easy and getting a bit harder each time, up to about 80% of your max. Rest 2 minutes between hangs. Stop while each hang still feels snappy and strong.
Who it’s for
Waking the fingers up before hard climbing or a hangboard session, so the first hard hold isn’t the first hard load.
Common mistakes
- Doing it cold. Some easy climbing first.
- Going to max. Around eighty per cent on the last hang. If you’re straining, you’ve overshot.
- Cutting the rests. Two minutes between hangs, even at the easy end.
How to progress
Stop while every hang still feels snappy. The point is arriving strong, so if you finish this feeling worked, do less next time.
When it fits
The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.
- Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
- Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.
- Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.
Related blocks
Start with a ready-made block
A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.