Why are you stuck on your grade?
Seven taps to a free training plan.
Your plan
Question 1 of 7
Where do you fall off?
Building your plan
- Picking the block for where you fall off
- Spacing the hard days
- Choosing every exercise
Your plan is ready
First up
I'm Frank, a boulderer and coach in the Netherlands. I hated every training app I tried, so I made the one I wanted.
One question while the email's on its way: what's put you off training apps before?
Before you climb on it
Worth reading first: how to train your fingers without hurting your pulleys.
Stop at the first sign of pain in your fingers, elbows or shoulders. Training is at your own risk.
If it's a finger, don't train it until a physio has looked at it.
Week 1
Weeks 2 to 4
How this plan is built
- The block trains one main system, with a shorter block of a second one next to it: power endurance after limit bouldering, or endurance after power endurance.
- Each session follows a recipe in the order you climb it: the warm-up, any finger work, the hard climbing, then strength work and stretches.
- Hard days are never back to back, and hard finger work comes twice a week at most.
- Strength work comes as a block, a pull with a push or core. You won't get one exercise tacked on at the end.
- Light weeks are the same sessions at about half the sets and time, just as hard. Before a trip or comp, the last two weeks taper the same way.
- In your first year, or with a niggle, there are no max-effort moves, no hangboard and no added weight.
- Campus and minimum-edge hangs only come in if you've bouldered for more than three years, climb 7A (V6) or harder and nothing is sore.