Hangboard calculator

Your hang as a share of bodyweight, and the load for a lighter session. Weight taken off on a pulley or with a foot on a chair goes in as a minus.

kglb

Bodyweight Added weight Minus for weight taken off

Total load: 70 kg
Of bodyweight: 100%

If that's your 10-second max, lighter hangs at
Of max	Total load	Added weight
90%
80%
70%
60%
50%

Before max hangs, a typical warm-up is three or four hangs that build from about half your working load to near it. Repeaters and density hangs go by feel instead: 7/3 repeaters at the load that makes each set's last hang hard, with a second or two left in you, density hangs at one you could hold 10 seconds longer.

Using the numbers

Max hangs (added weight): 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge with added weight, 3 min rest. Add 2 kg after two clean sessions. The right added weight makes 10 seconds hard, but you could hold on for about 3 seconds more.

A minus added weight means a pulley or a foot on a chair takes that much off. The percentage of bodyweight is the number to watch over a season, since it still makes sense when your bodyweight changes.

To find your max, warm up, then hang the same edge for 10 seconds, adding a little weight each time with about three minutes' rest, until 10 seconds is all you can hold. Test on the same edge with the same hand position every time, or the numbers won't compare. Every four to six weeks is often enough, on a fresh day rather than after a hard session.

New to the hangboard? You don't need a number yet. Abrahangs keep your feet on the floor and go by feel.

Hang only when you're warmed up, and stop at the first sign of pain in your fingers or elbows. Training is at your own risk.

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