One-arm pull-ups

4 sets of 1-3 assisted one-arm pull-ups per arm, alternating arms, 90 s rest.

Slot: Strength
Focus: Pulling strength
Time: 16 min
Intensity: Max
Injury risk: High
Intervals: 8 rounds, 1:30 rest
Equipment: Pull up bar, Pulley, Resistance band, Timer

How to do it

Hang from a bar with one hand and use assistance - a resistance band, or your other hand holding a towel or sling lower down - so you can do 1-3 clean reps. Pull up with control, lower slowly, then rest 90 seconds and switch arms. Do 4 sets per arm, using the least assistance that still gives clean reps. Advanced - build up weighted two-arm pull-ups first.

High injury risk. Only do this fully warmed up, rested and injury-free, and stop at the first sign of pain in your fingers or elbows. Training is at your own risk.

Who it’s for

Climbers who can already do several clean weighted pull-ups and want the lock-off strength that steep climbing asks for. If you can’t yet do eight good two-arm pull-ups, your time is better spent there.

Common mistakes

Too much assistance. If you can grind out six, it isn’t a one-arm pull-up any more. Use the least help that still gives you clean reps.
Twisting to the working side. The body should stay square. A body that spirals is borrowing from the other arm.
Dropping out of the bottom. Lower slowly to straight arms every rep. The lowering is where most of the strength comes from.
Doing them tired. These go early in the session, on fresh arms and healthy elbows.

How to progress

Take the assistance away slowly: a lighter band, a lower towel hand, fewer fingers on the second hand. Elbow pain is the usual reason people stop, so add a set only when the last one still felt clean, and keep some antagonist work in the same week.

When it fits

The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.

Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.

Start with a ready-made block

A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.