A strength plan for boulderers, 3 days a week

Week 1, find your loads: every hang or edge pull hard but clean, with 2 or 3 seconds in hand. After that, add 2 kg once an exercise has felt clean for two sessions in a row; on minimum-edge hangs, move to a smaller edge instead. Week 2, try one harder limit problem. Week 3 is the heaviest, with the same number of hangs and attempts.

1. MondayOn the wall · 45 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min
2. TuesdayRest

3. WednesdaySkills on the wall · 43 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Toe-pull tension drill3-4 toe hook moves: pause 2 s in tension, then move one limb.23 min
   • Push-up plus3 sets of 10-15 push-ups with a plus at the top: push the floor away so the shoulder blades spread.5 min
4. ThursdayRest
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdayOn the wall · 45 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • First moves on too-hard bouldersOnly the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.30 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
2. TuesdayRest

3. WednesdaySkills on the wall · 45 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
4. ThursdayRest
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Regeneration traverse (four stages)10 min of easy traversing in 4 stages of 2-3 min: footwork, body position, momentum, then speed.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest

Week 1, find your loads: every hang or edge pull hard but clean, with 2 or 3 seconds in hand. After that, add 2 kg once an exercise has felt clean for two sessions in a row; on minimum-edge hangs, move to a smaller edge instead. Week 2, try one harder limit problem. Week 3 is the heaviest, with the same number of hangs and attempts.

1. MondayOn the wall · 59 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Finger maintenanceAfter warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.9 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min
2. TuesdayRest

3. WednesdaySkills on the wall · 58 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Toe-pull tension drill3-4 toe hook moves: pause 2 s in tension, then move one limb.23 min
   • Weighted pull-ups2 warm-up sets, then 5 sets of 3 pull-ups at about 85% of your 2-rep max, 3 min rest.20 min
4. ThursdayRest
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdayOn the wall · 59 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Pick-ups5 pick-ups of 8 s per hand on a lifting edge, 3 s to switch hands, 3 min rest.14 min
   • First moves on too-hard bouldersOnly the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.30 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
2. TuesdayRest

3. WednesdaySkills on the wall · 45 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
4. ThursdayRest
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Regeneration traverse (four stages)10 min of easy traversing in 4 stages of 2-3 min: footwork, body position, momentum, then speed.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest

Week 1, find your loads: every hang or edge pull hard but clean, with 2 or 3 seconds in hand. After that, add 2 kg once an exercise has felt clean for two sessions in a row; on minimum-edge hangs, move to a smaller edge instead. Week 2, try one harder limit problem. Week 3 is the heaviest, with the same number of hangs and attempts.

1. MondayOn the wall · 60 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Minimum edge hangs4 hangs of 10 s on the smallest edge you can hold for about 15 s, 3 min rest.10 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min
2. TuesdayRest

3. WednesdaySkills on the wall · 58 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Toe-pull tension drill3-4 toe hook moves: pause 2 s in tension, then move one limb.23 min
   • Weighted pull-ups2 warm-up sets, then 5 sets of 3 pull-ups at about 85% of your 2-rep max, 3 min rest.20 min
4. ThursdayRest
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdayOn the wall · 58 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Max hangs (added weight)5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge with added weight, 3 min rest.13 min
   • First moves on too-hard bouldersOnly the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.30 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
2. TuesdayRest

3. WednesdaySkills on the wall · 45 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
4. ThursdayRest
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Regeneration traverse (four stages)10 min of easy traversing in 4 stages of 2-3 min: footwork, body position, momentum, then speed.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest

Week 1, find your loads: every hang or edge pull hard but clean, with 2 or 3 seconds in hand. After that, add 2 kg once an exercise has felt clean for two sessions in a row; on minimum-edge hangs, move to a smaller edge instead. Week 2, try one harder limit problem. Week 3 is the heaviest, with the same number of hangs and attempts.

1. MondayOn the wall · 69 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Finger maintenanceAfter warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.9 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
2. TuesdayRest

3. WednesdaySkills on the wall · 81 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Toe-pull tension drill3-4 toe hook moves: pause 2 s in tension, then move one limb.23 min
   • Weighted pull-ups2 warm-up sets, then 5 sets of 3 pull-ups at about 85% of your 2-rep max, 3 min rest.20 min
   • Push-up plus3 sets of 10-15 push-ups with a plus at the top: push the floor away so the shoulder blades spread.5 min
   • Hanging leg raises / toes-to-bar4 sets of 6-10 slow hanging leg raises, 90 s rest.8 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
4. ThursdayRest
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdayOn the wall · 69 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Pick-ups5 pick-ups of 8 s per hand on a lifting edge, 3 s to switch hands, 3 min rest.14 min
   • First moves on too-hard bouldersOnly the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.30 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
2. TuesdayRest

3. WednesdaySkills on the wall · 45 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
4. ThursdayRest
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Regeneration traverse (four stages)10 min of easy traversing in 4 stages of 2-3 min: footwork, body position, momentum, then speed.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest

Week 1, find your loads: every hang or edge pull hard but clean, with 2 or 3 seconds in hand. After that, add 2 kg once an exercise has felt clean for two sessions in a row; on minimum-edge hangs, move to a smaller edge instead. Week 2, try one harder limit problem. Week 3 is the heaviest, with the same number of hangs and attempts.

1. MondayOn the wall · 70 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Minimum edge hangs4 hangs of 10 s on the smallest edge you can hold for about 15 s, 3 min rest.10 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
2. TuesdayRest

3. WednesdaySkills on the wall · 81 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Toe-pull tension drill3-4 toe hook moves: pause 2 s in tension, then move one limb.23 min
   • Weighted pull-ups2 warm-up sets, then 5 sets of 3 pull-ups at about 85% of your 2-rep max, 3 min rest.20 min
   • Push-up plus3 sets of 10-15 push-ups with a plus at the top: push the floor away so the shoulder blades spread.5 min
   • Hanging leg raises / toes-to-bar4 sets of 6-10 slow hanging leg raises, 90 s rest.8 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
4. ThursdayRest
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdayOn the wall · 68 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Max hangs (added weight)5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge with added weight, 3 min rest.13 min
   • First moves on too-hard bouldersOnly the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.30 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
2. TuesdayRest

3. WednesdaySkills on the wall · 45 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
4. ThursdayRest
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Regeneration traverse (four stages)10 min of easy traversing in 4 stages of 2-3 min: footwork, body position, momentum, then speed.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest