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Single-leg calf raises (slow lowers)

3 sets of 8-12 single-leg calf raises per leg, 1 s up, 1 s hold, 5 s down. 1 min rest.

Slot
Strength
Focus
General strength
Time
10 min
Intensity
Moderate
Injury risk
Low
Intervals
3 rounds, 1:00 rest
Equipment
Box, Chair support

How to do it

Calf strength is what keeps your heel low on a smear and your weight on a tiny edge. Stand on the ball of one foot on a step or box, heel free, a hand on a wall for balance, weight over the big toe. Rise as high as you can in about a second, hold a second at the top, then lower over 5 s, slowest at the bottom where your heel drops below the step. Pause a second and repeat. Do 8-12 reps, then the other leg. 3 sets, 1 minute rest. Start with both feet if one leg is too hard; hold a dumbbell once 12 reps are easy. Expect stiff calves the first week and keep it to twice a week.

Who it’s for

Climbers whose heels pop up on smears, and whose calves give out standing on small footholds. It’s also a good start for anyone who has only ever trained their upper body.

Common mistakes

  • Rushing the way down. The slow lower is the exercise. Five seconds, slowest at the bottom.
  • Weight on the outside of the foot. Keep it over the big toe, the same line you stand on a small foothold with.
  • Bouncing out of the bottom. Pause before the next rep. Bouncing skips the hardest part.
  • Pulling on the wall. Your hand is there for balance only.
  • Doing it too often at first. Twice a week. Stiff calves in the first week are normal, and extra sessions only make that worse.

How to progress

Go from both feet to one, then hold a dumbbell once 12 reps a leg feel easy. Add weight in small steps and keep the five-second lower every time.

When it fits

The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.

  • Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.
  • Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
  • Deload Train less, let your fingers recover, keep moving.

Start with a ready-made block

A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.