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Which stretches help climbing, and how long to hold them

Frank BlokdijkBy Frank Blokdijk, bouldering coach · Updated

Short answer

Stretch your hips and hamstrings. That's the range climbing asks for: high feet, wide bridging and keeping your hips close to the wall. Two or three times a week after climbing, do the pancake: 5 holds of 45 seconds with 15 seconds rest. Then the frog or butterfly the same way, and the couch stretch for the front of your hip, 2 holds of 45 seconds per side. Lean in slowly and don't bounce. Before climbing, swap the long holds for moving stretches and an easy wall. Then give it a month.

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What climbers need to stretch

Mostly hips. Your inner thighs and hamstrings decide whether you get a high foot out to the side, bridge a corner or keep your hips in on a wide stance, and the pancake, frog and butterfly all work there. The front of your hip decides whether you can stand up tall over that foot. The couch stretch is the one for that.

Then your lats and chest, because all the pulling tightens them. The lat and pec doorway stretch takes two minutes.

A routine for after climbing

About 15 minutes, two or three times a week, while you're still warm:

  1. Pancake, 5 holds
  2. Frog or butterfly, 5 holds
  3. Couch stretch, 2 holds per side
  4. Lat and pec doorway stretch, 2 rounds

Breathe out as you lean in, and stop at a strong stretch, before it hurts.

Pancake and pike: stretch them, then use them

A long hold gets you range with your hands pulling you into it. On the wall nothing's pulling you, so you need to get there with your own muscles too:

Do one of these after the holds. Seated pike lifts are hard at first, and your heels might barely leave the floor. That's fine.

Before climbing

Skip the long holds and move through the range instead: hip circles, the world's greatest stretch, then a few high steps on an easy wall. Then easy problems before hard ones.

Where it goes wrong

  • Bouncing. Short pushes into a stretch make the muscle fight back. Lean in and wait.
  • Stretching cold. A deep pancake straight off the bike is how hamstrings get tweaked. After climbing is the easy slot.
  • Only holding. Pair each hold with an active drill, so you can reach the range without your hands pulling you into it.
  • Judging it after a week. Range comes slowly. Measure how far your hands reach in the pancake, and check again in a month.

If a stretch gives you a sharp pain, or pain that sticks around afterwards, stop and see a physio.

The exercises

  • Pancake stretch

    5 holds of 45 s, 15 s rest between holds.

    5 min · Low risk · 5 × 45s on, 15s off

  • Frog stretch

    5 holds of 45 s, 15 s rest between holds.

    5 min · Low risk · 5 × 45s on, 15s off

  • Couch stretch (hip flexors)

    2 holds of 45 s per side, alternating sides.

    4 min · Low risk · 4 × 45s on, 15s off

  • Active hamstring floss

    2-3 rounds of 10 slow straight-leg raises per side.

    6 min · Low risk · 2 rounds

  • Seated pike lifts

    3 sets of 10 straight-leg lifts, 1 s hold, 1 min rest.

    6 min · Low risk · 3 rounds, 1:00 rest

  • Lat and pec doorway stretch

    30 s chest and 30 s lat stretch per side in a doorway, 2 rounds.

    6 min · Low risk · 8 × 30s on, 10s off

Questions

Should I stretch before climbing?

Not with long holds. Before climbing, move through the range instead, with something like the world's greatest stretch and high steps on an easy wall. Save the long holds for after.

What's the difference between the pancake and the pike?

Both are forward folds from the hips with straight legs. In the pancake your legs are wide, which is the range for bridging and high feet out to the side. In the pike they're together, and it's mostly your hamstrings.

How long until I'm more flexible?

Give it a month of two or three sessions a week before you judge it. Write down how far your hands reach in the pancake, so you can tell.

Do I need to do the splits to climb harder?

No. You need enough range to get your foot where you want it, and the strength to use it there. That's why the active drills are on this page too.