Abrahangs (easy daily hangs)

Who it's for

Anyone who wants more finger volume without more fatigue: rest days, deload weeks, and the first weeks back after a layoff. Because the load is low, it fits alongside a normal climbing week instead of competing with it. The six holds also put light, controlled load through positions most sessions never train on purpose, like two-finger pockets and crimps.

Newer climbers can do them too, since your feet stay down and you set the effort yourself. If a finger already hurts, get a physio to look at it before you start.

How the effort works

Your feet stay on the floor the whole time. Effort is a share of what it would take to lift your feet off the ground, so 70-80% on the four-finger crimp and three-finger drag is a firm pull that still leaves real weight in your feet. It steps down as the holds get smaller: 50-60% on the two-finger pockets, 30-40% on the two-finger crimps.

Common mistakes

• Going too hard. Even the 70-80% sets should never feel like a max hang. If you're counting down the last seconds, you're doing max hangs with a different name, and it'll cost you on your next climbing day.
• Keeping one effort for every hold. The two-finger positions get less effort. Drop to 50-60% and then 30-40% as the protocol says.
• Skipping the pinky stretch. On the two-finger crimps, use the rest to stretch your pinkies. You're resting 50 seconds anyway.
• Doing them next to a session. Six hours away from climbing, or on a rest day. Stacked onto a session they stop being easy volume and become extra load.
• Hanging fully passive. Keep a little tension through the shoulder rather than letting it slide up to your ears.

How to progress

Don't chase smaller edges or more effort. You progress by doing them more often: one session a day, then two. The moment you find yourself picking a smaller edge to make it interesting, you want max hangs instead.

How to make it easier

Keep more weight in your feet and stay at the bottom of each effort range. If the two-finger positions feel sharp, leave them out for a couple of weeks and do only the four-finger crimp and three-finger drag sets.

Where it fits in your week

Abrahangs suit a Base, Strength or Endurance period, and deload weeks. Put them on rest days, or in the morning before an evening session so there's at least six hours in between.

Questions

What are Abrahangs?

Abrahangs are Emil Abrahamsson's easy daily hangs: ten 10-second hangs with your feet on the floor, spread across six holds from a four-finger crimp on a 14mm edge to two-finger crimps. The effort starts at 70-80% of what it takes to lift your feet and steps down as the holds get smaller.

How often should you do Abrahangs?

Up to twice a day, on rest days or at least six hours away from climbing. Start with one session a day and see how your fingers feel on your next climbing day. If they feel flat or sore, you've gone too hard or too often, so ease the effort before you cut the days.

Do Abrahangs make you stronger?

They build finger volume and tolerance more than max strength. The load is low on purpose, so the point is regular, easy work your tendons can handle alongside climbing. If you want to hang a smaller edge or add weight, that's what max hangs are for, and Abrahangs can sit alongside them on other days.