Read, say, send
5-6 new boulders: say your sequence out loud before each attempt, then compare.
- Slot
- On the wall
- Focus
- Reading
- Time
- 21 min
- Intensity
- Moderate
- Injury risk
- Low
- Intervals
- 5 rounds, 2:00 rest
- Equipment
- Boulders
How to do it
Pick 5-6 boulders you haven't tried. Before each attempt, say out loud the hand sequence, the body position for the hardest move, and where you'll rest or shake out. Climb it once, then compare what you planned with what actually happened. Rest 2 minutes between boulders.
Who it’s for
Anyone whose plan falls apart the moment they leave the ground. Saying the sequence out loud exposes the vague bits, because you can’t say ‘and then somehow’ without noticing.
Common mistakes
- Saying it in your head. Out loud. That’s the mechanism.
- Only naming the hands. Body position for the crux and where you’ll shake out, too.
- Skipping the comparison afterwards. Plan against reality, every time.
- Doing it on problems you know. New boulders only.
How to progress
Longer boulders, then problems in your anti-style, where your reading is worst. Once it’s a habit, you’ll find yourself doing a quiet version of it before every attempt, which is the actual goal.
When it fits
The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.
- Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.
- Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.
Related blocks
Start with a ready-made block
A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.