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Read, say, send

5-6 new boulders: say your sequence out loud before each attempt, then compare.

Slot
On the wall
Focus
Reading
Time
21 min
Intensity
Moderate intensity
Injury risk
Low injury risk
Equipment
Boulders

How to do it

Pick 5-6 boulders you haven't tried. Before each attempt, say out loud the hand sequence, the body position for the hardest move, and where you'll rest or shake out. Climb it once, then compare what you planned with what actually happened. Rest 2 minutes between boulders.

Run it now

The same timer as the app: a five-second get-ready, then every round and rest counted down with a beep. Keep this page open while you train.

Read, say, send

0:00 / 20:10

Ready

20:10

5 rounds

5-6 new boulders: say your sequence out loud before each attempt, then compare.

5
rounds
2:00
rest
20:10
total

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Who it's for

Anyone whose plan falls apart the moment they leave the ground. Saying the sequence out loud exposes the vague bits, because you can't say 'and then somehow' without noticing.

Common mistakes

  • Saying it in your head. Out loud. That's the mechanism.
  • Only naming the hands. Body position for the crux and where you'll shake out, too.
  • Skipping the comparison afterwards. Plan against reality, every time.
  • Doing it on problems you know. New boulders only.

How to progress

Longer boulders, then problems in your anti-style, where your reading is worst. Once it's a habit, you'll find yourself doing a quiet version of it before every attempt, which is the actual goal.

When it fits

The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.

  • Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.

  • Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.