A plan to peak for a bouldering trip or comp, 3 days a week
You've got a trip or a project to peak for. Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.
3 sessions a week45, 60 or 90 minutes4 weeks, the last one lighter
The four weeks
Weeks one to three train peaking, mental focus and route reading on the same days, and each week asks a bit more of you. Week four is lighter: the same days with less work, so you start the next block fresh. The standard version leaves out the high-risk exercises.
Weeks 1 to 2
Week 2: Link the sections: overlapping chunks first, then from the start to your high point. Week 3: Taper: the same hard attempts at about half the volume, so you arrive fresh.
MondayOn the wall · 45 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- Overlapping linksSplit your project into sections, then link overlapping chunks.30 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 45 min
- Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
- Project fine tuningRefine 3 old projects, about 10 min each, until they feel smooth and efficient.30 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 45 min
- Skin and finger ramp3-4 rounds of easy climbing plus brief open-hand, half-crimp, and sloper holds.15 min
- Timed send burns4 near-send boulders, 6 min window each including attempts, 2 min between.30 min
- SundayRest
Weeks 3 to 4
Week 2: Link the sections: overlapping chunks first, then from the start to your high point. Week 3: Taper: the same hard attempts at about half the volume, so you arrive fresh.
MondayOn the wall · 30 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- Overlapping linksSplit your project into sections, then link overlapping chunks.15 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 35 min
- Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
- Project fine tuningRefine 3 old projects, about 10 min each, until they feel smooth and efficient.20 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 29 min
- Skin and finger ramp3-4 rounds of easy climbing plus brief open-hand, half-crimp, and sloper holds.15 min
- Timed send burns4 near-send boulders, 6 min window each including attempts, 2 min between.14 min
- SundayRest
Weeks 1 to 2
Week 2: Link the sections: overlapping chunks first, then from the start to your high point. Week 3: Taper: the same hard attempts at about half the volume, so you arrive fresh.
MondayOn the wall · 59 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
- Finger maintenanceAfter warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.9 min
- Overlapping linksSplit your project into sections, then link overlapping chunks.30 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 58 min
- Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
- Project fine tuningRefine 3 old projects, about 10 min each, until they feel smooth and efficient.30 min
- Pulling maintenance + Push-up plus + Dead bug13 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 60 min
- Skin and finger ramp3-4 rounds of easy climbing plus brief open-hand, half-crimp, and sloper holds.15 min
- Timed send burns4 near-send boulders, 6 min window each including attempts, 2 min between.30 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch + Cross-body shoulder stretch + Couch stretch (hip flexors)15 min
- SundayRest
Weeks 3 to 4
Week 2: Link the sections: overlapping chunks first, then from the start to your high point. Week 3: Taper: the same hard attempts at about half the volume, so you arrive fresh.
MondayOn the wall · 40 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
- Finger maintenanceAfter warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.5 min
- Overlapping linksSplit your project into sections, then link overlapping chunks.15 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 35 min
- Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
- Project fine tuningRefine 3 old projects, about 10 min each, until they feel smooth and efficient.20 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 29 min
- Skin and finger ramp3-4 rounds of easy climbing plus brief open-hand, half-crimp, and sloper holds.15 min
- Timed send burns4 near-send boulders, 6 min window each including attempts, 2 min between.14 min
- SundayRest
Weeks 1 to 2
Week 2: Link the sections: overlapping chunks first, then from the start to your high point. Week 3: Taper: the same hard attempts at about half the volume, so you arrive fresh.
MondayOn the wall · 75 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
- Finger maintenanceAfter warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.9 min
- Overlapping linksSplit your project into sections, then link overlapping chunks.30 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch + Lat and pec doorway stretch + Frog stretch16 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 89 min
- Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
- Mantle practice4-5 different mantles low to the ground, 3-5 tries each.20 min
- Project fine tuningRefine 3 old projects, about 10 min each, until they feel smooth and efficient.30 min
- Pulling maintenance + Push-up plus + Hollow body hold18 min
- Lat and pec doorway stretch30 s chest and 30 s lat stretch per side in a doorway, 2 rounds.6 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 80 min
- Skin and finger ramp3-4 rounds of easy climbing plus brief open-hand, half-crimp, and sloper holds.15 min
- Timed send burns4 near-send boulders, 6 min window each including attempts, 2 min between.30 min
- Climb and reverse the cruxClimb a crux, reverse 1-3 moves, climb it again.20 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch + Cross-body shoulder stretch + Couch stretch (hip flexors)15 min
- SundayRest
Weeks 3 to 4
Week 2: Link the sections: overlapping chunks first, then from the start to your high point. Week 3: Taper: the same hard attempts at about half the volume, so you arrive fresh.
MondayOn the wall · 40 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
- Finger maintenanceAfter warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.5 min
- Overlapping linksSplit your project into sections, then link overlapping chunks.15 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 45 min
- Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
- Mantle practice4-5 different mantles low to the ground, 3-5 tries each.10 min
- Project fine tuningRefine 3 old projects, about 10 min each, until they feel smooth and efficient.20 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 29 min
- Skin and finger ramp3-4 rounds of easy climbing plus brief open-hand, half-crimp, and sloper holds.15 min
- Timed send burns4 near-send boulders, 6 min window each including attempts, 2 min between.14 min
- SundayRest
Put it in your planner
Add the plan and tick sessions off in the browser planner. It syncs to the iPhone app on the same account. It goes in with the session length and version you picked above.
Want it built around your climbing?
This plan is the same for everyone. Answer seven questions, including your grade and whether anything's sore, and get four weeks made from your answers.
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