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30/30 intervals

3 sets of 6 x (30 s hard climbing, 30 s rest), 7 min rest between sets.

Slot
On the wall
Focus
Power endurance
Time
31 min
Intensity
High intensity
Injury risk
Moderate injury risk
Equipment
Boulders, Timer

How to do it

Eric Hörst's power endurance intervals. Pick a hard section, short boulder, or board problem you can climb for about 30 seconds (link or repeat moves to fill the time). Climb hard for 30 seconds, rest 30 seconds, and repeat 6 times - that's one set. Rest 7 minutes and do 3 sets. The last intervals of each set should be a real fight. Train power endurance like this for 2-4 weeks at most, 2 sessions a week.

Run it now

The same timer as the app: a five-second get-ready, then every round and rest counted down with a beep. Keep this page open while you train.

30/30 intervals

0:00 / 30:35

Ready

30:35

3 sets of 6

3 sets of 6 x (30 s hard climbing, 30 s rest), 7 min rest between sets.

3 × 6
sets × rounds
30s
climb
30s
rest
7:00
set rest
30:35
total

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Who it's for

Boulderers a few weeks out from a trip or a competition who can already climb their grade but keep falling off the last moves. Like every power endurance protocol it produces fast gains that fade fast, so it belongs close to the thing you're training for.

Common mistakes

  • Picking a section that's too hard. If you can't fill thirty seconds with movement, you're doing singles with rests. Link moves or repeat a section to make the time.
  • Picking a section that's too easy. The last two intervals of each set should be a genuine fight. If set three feels the same as set one, go harder.
  • Cutting the seven minutes. That rest is what lets the next set be hard rather than just tiring.
  • Running it for two months. Two to four weeks, two sessions a week. Longer and you flatten out and stay flat.
  • Doing it in the same week as max finger work. Pick one. They pull in different directions and both are demanding.

How to progress

Harder terrain, not more intervals. If you want more volume, add a fourth set before you extend the work interval past thirty seconds, and drop back to three sets the following week.

When it fits

The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.

  • Power Endurance Keep your power through one hard move after another.

  • Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.