A power endurance plan for boulderers, 3 days a week
You run out of power halfway up. Keep your power through one hard move after another.
3 sessions a week45, 60 or 90 minutes4 weeks, the last one lighter
The four weeks
Weeks one to three train power endurance, endurance and mental focus on the same days, and each week asks a bit more of you. Week four is lighter: the same days with less work, so you start the next block fresh. The standard version leaves out the high-risk exercises.
Weeks 1 to 3
Week 2: Cut the rest between laps and between sets by 30 seconds, or take one boulder a grade harder. Week 3: The boulders a grade harder, with the rest back where it was in week 1.
MondayOn the wall · 44 min
- Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
- 4x44 boulders, each climbed 4 times within 4 min, then 4 min rest.28 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 44 min
- Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
- 20 boulders in 20 minutes20 boulders in 20 minutes at flash level or one grade below.20 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch + Behind-the-back towel stretch9 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 44 min
- Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
- 4x44 boulders, each climbed 4 times within 4 min, then 4 min rest.28 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
- SundayRest
Week 4, lighter
MondayOn the wall · 28 min
- Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
- 4x44 boulders, each climbed 4 times within 4 min, then 4 min rest.12 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 31 min
- Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
- 20 boulders in 20 minutes20 boulders in 20 minutes at flash level or one grade below.10 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 28 min
- Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
- 4x44 boulders, each climbed 4 times within 4 min, then 4 min rest.12 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
- SundayRest
Weeks 1 to 3
Week 2: Cut the rest between laps and between sets by 30 seconds, or take one boulder a grade harder. Week 3: The boulders a grade harder, with the rest back where it was in week 1.
MondayOn the wall · 59 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 59 min
- Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
- 20 boulders in 20 minutes20 boulders in 20 minutes at flash level or one grade below.20 min
- Pulling maintenance + Push-up plus + Hollow body hold18 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 59 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- 30/30 intervals3 sets of 6 x (30 s hard climbing, 30 s rest), 7 min rest between sets.31 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch + Cross-body shoulder stretch + Pigeon pose13 min
- SundayRest
Week 4, lighter
MondayOn the wall · 33 min
- Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
- 4x44 boulders, each climbed 4 times within 4 min, then 4 min rest.12 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 31 min
- Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
- 20 boulders in 20 minutes20 boulders in 20 minutes at flash level or one grade below.10 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 39 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- 30/30 intervals3 sets of 6 x (30 s hard climbing, 30 s rest), 7 min rest between sets.18 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
- SundayRest
Weeks 1 to 3
Week 2: Cut the rest between laps and between sets by 30 seconds, or take one boulder a grade harder. Week 3: The boulders a grade harder, with the rest back where it was in week 1.
MondayOn the wall · 89 min
- Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
- 3x3 boulder repeats6 sets of one boulder 3 times, 1 min rest between tries, 3 min between sets.41 min
- Up-and-down boulders5 easy boulders, 2 laps each: climb up, then all the way back down.25 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch + Pigeon pose8 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 89 min
- Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
- Straight-arm efficiency drill6-8 boulders below your limit, 2 laps each, arms straight wherever possible.20 min
- 20 boulders in 20 minutes20 boulders in 20 minutes at flash level or one grade below.20 min
- Pulling maintenance + Push-up plus + Hollow body hold18 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch + Lat and pec doorway stretch + Frog stretch16 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 89 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- Repeat hard boulders under time limit8 boulders 1-2 grades below your max, 5 min each including rest.40 min
- Up-and-down boulders5 easy boulders, 2 laps each: climb up, then all the way back down.25 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch + Behind-the-back towel stretch9 min
- SundayRest
Week 4, lighter
MondayOn the wall · 40 min
- Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
- 3x3 boulder repeats6 sets of one boulder 3 times, 1 min rest between tries, 3 min between sets.19 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 41 min
- Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
- Straight-arm efficiency drill6-8 boulders below your limit, 2 laps each, arms straight wherever possible.10 min
- 20 boulders in 20 minutes20 boulders in 20 minutes at flash level or one grade below.10 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 41 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- Repeat hard boulders under time limit8 boulders 1-2 grades below your max, 5 min each including rest.20 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
- SundayRest
Put it in your planner
Add the plan and tick sessions off in the browser planner. It syncs to the iPhone app on the same account. It goes in with the session length and version you picked above.
Want it built around your climbing?
This plan is the same for everyone. Answer seven questions, including your grade and whether anything's sore, and get four weeks made from your answers.
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