A power endurance plan for boulderers, 4 days a week

Week 2, cut the 4x4 rest to 3:30, or take one boulder a grade harder. Week 3, all four boulders a grade harder, with the rest back at 4:00.

1. MondayOn the wall · 43 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • 4x44 boulders, each climbed 4 times within 4 min, then 4 min rest.28 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 45 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Straight-arm efficiency drill6-8 boulders below your limit, 2 laps each, arms straight wherever possible.20 min
   • Pulling maintenance3-4 sets of 3-5 clean pull-ups or 10 s lock-off holds, 2 min rest.10 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 43 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • 4x44 boulders, each climbed 4 times within 4 min, then 4 min rest.28 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 45 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • Backstep drill5-6 easy steep boulders, 2-3 times each, backstepping wherever it helps.20 min
   • Pulling maintenance3-4 sets of 3-5 clean pull-ups or 10 s lock-off holds, 2 min rest.10 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 45 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Regeneration traverse (four stages)10 min of easy traversing in 4 stages of 2-3 min: footwork, body position, momentum, then speed.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest

Week 2, cut the 4x4 rest to 3:30, or take one boulder a grade harder. Week 3, all four boulders a grade harder, with the rest back at 4:00.

1. MondayOn the wall · 59 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • 4x44 boulders, each climbed 4 times within 4 min, then 4 min rest.28 min
   • Six one-minute reps6 one-minute windows: climb a 4-6 move problem, rest for the rest of the minute.6 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 59 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Straight-arm efficiency drill6-8 boulders below your limit, 2 laps each, arms straight wherever possible.20 min
   • Finger maintenanceAfter warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.9 min
   • Pulling maintenance3-4 sets of 3-5 clean pull-ups or 10 s lock-off holds, 2 min rest.10 min
   • Push-up plus3 sets of 10-15 push-ups with a plus at the top: push the floor away so the shoulder blades spread.5 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 56 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • 30/30 intervals3 sets of 6 x (30 s hard climbing, 30 s rest), 7 min rest between sets.31 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 56 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • Backstep drill5-6 easy steep boulders, 2-3 times each, backstepping wherever it helps.20 min
   • Finger maintenanceAfter warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.9 min
   • Pull-ups4 sets of 5-8 pull-ups, 2 min rest.12 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 45 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Regeneration traverse (four stages)10 min of easy traversing in 4 stages of 2-3 min: footwork, body position, momentum, then speed.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest

Week 2, cut the 4x4 rest to 3:30, or take one boulder a grade harder. Week 3, all four boulders a grade harder, with the rest back at 4:00.

1. MondayOn the wall · 89 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min
   • 4x44 boulders, each climbed 4 times within 4 min, then 4 min rest.28 min
   • Six one-minute reps6 one-minute windows: climb a 4-6 move problem, rest for the rest of the minute.6 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 69 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Straight-arm efficiency drill6-8 boulders below your limit, 2 laps each, arms straight wherever possible.20 min
   • Finger maintenanceAfter warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.9 min
   • Pulling maintenance3-4 sets of 3-5 clean pull-ups or 10 s lock-off holds, 2 min rest.10 min
   • Push-up plus3 sets of 10-15 push-ups with a plus at the top: push the floor away so the shoulder blades spread.5 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 86 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min
   • 30/30 intervals3 sets of 6 x (30 s hard climbing, 30 s rest), 7 min rest between sets.31 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 71 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • Backstep drill5-6 easy steep boulders, 2-3 times each, backstepping wherever it helps.20 min
   • Finger maintenanceAfter warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.9 min
   • Pull-ups4 sets of 5-8 pull-ups, 2 min rest.12 min
   • Band external rotation (90 degrees abducted)3 sets of 8 rotations per arm with a light band, elbow up at shoulder height, 1 min rest.5 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 45 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Regeneration traverse (four stages)10 min of easy traversing in 4 stages of 2-3 min: footwork, body position, momentum, then speed.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest