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3 second rule

Hover your hand over each hold for 3 s before grabbing. 3 attempts per boulder.

Slot
On the wall
Focus
Stability
Time
25 min
Intensity
Moderate
Injury risk
Moderate
Equipment
Boulders, Overhang, Timer

How to do it

On flash-level overhangs, hover your hand above each hold for 3 seconds before grabbing. 3 attempts per boulder. If you can't hover without coming off, your weight isn't over your feet - fix your feet and hips before you grab.

Who it’s for

Diagnosing where your weight is. If you can’t hover, you’re hanging off your arms and your feet aren’t doing their job. It’s uncomfortable and very useful.

Common mistakes

  • Rushing the hover. Three full seconds.
  • Fixing it by pulling harder. The fix is feet and hips, not arms.
  • Choosing boulders that are too hard. Flash level overhangs.

How to progress

Steeper ground or worse footholds. The tell that it’s working is finding yourself naturally settling your feet before a reach on hard climbs.

When it fits

The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.

  • Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.
  • Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
  • Power Endurance Keep your power through one hard move after another.

Start with a ready-made block

A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.