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Hamstring curls (heel-hook prehab)

3 sets of 10-12 slow curls per leg with a band, slider or ball, 1 s squeeze at the top. 1 min rest.

Slot
Strength
Focus
General strength
Time
7 min
Intensity
Moderate
Injury risk
Low
Intervals
3 rounds, 1:00 rest
Equipment
Resistance band, Floor space

How to do it

A heel hook pulls with the back of the leg, and hamstring strains are a common bouldering injury; this builds the strength to pull safely. With a band: anchor it low, loop it around one ankle, stand facing away and pull your heel toward your bottom, squeezing 1 s at the top, then lower slowly. Without a band: lie on your back with your heels on a slider or a ball, lift your hips, and drag your heels toward you and back out with your hips level; use one leg at a time once two is easy. Do 10-12 reps per leg, 3 sets, 1 minute rest, 2-3 times a week. Progress to a stronger band or the single-leg version before moving on to Nordic curls.

Who it’s for

Anyone who heel hooks, and anyone who isn’t ready for Nordic curls yet. It’s the gentler step before them, and it builds the strength that lets the back of the leg take a hard heel hook without complaint.

Common mistakes

  • Dropping the heel back down. Lower it slowly. The way back out counts as much as the curl.
  • Letting the hips sag. In the slider or ball version, keep your hips lifted and level the whole set.
  • Skipping the squeeze at the top. Hold the second. It’s easy to turn the set into a quick swing.
  • Moving on too soon. If the single-leg version is still a fight, you’re not ready for Nordics.

How to progress

A stronger band, or one leg at a time on the slider or ball. Once that’s comfortable for every set, move on to Nordic curls.

When it fits

The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.

  • Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.
  • Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
  • Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.
  • Power Endurance Keep your power through one hard move after another.
  • Endurance Climb longer before you pump out, by moving efficiently.
  • Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.
  • Deload Train less, let your fingers recover, keep moving.

Start with a ready-made block

A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.