A power plan for boulderers, 3 days a week
Big moves are stopping you. Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.
3 sessions a week45, 60 or 90 minutes4 weeks, the last one lighter
The four weeks
Weeks one to three train explosive power, momentum and coordination on the same days, and each week asks a bit more of you. Week four is lighter: the same days with less work, so you start the next block fresh. The standard version leaves out the high-risk exercises. If you've bouldered for more than three years, climb 7A (V6) or harder, nothing is sore and you've campused feet-on before, pick Harder: it adds Campus contact hits and Max hangs (added weight).
Weeks 1 to 3
Week 2: One more try per move, or a slightly bigger move. Week 3: Your hardest moves of the block, with the same number of tries.
MondayOn the wall · 45 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 44 min
- Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
- Deadpoint training3-4 moves, 5 tries each: deadpoint to an exact spot on the hold, feet staying on.21 min
- Lat and pec doorway stretch + Pigeon pose8 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 45 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- Jump into lock-offJump to catch a hold with your arm already bent 90 degrees.25 min
- Cross-body shoulder stretch4 holds of 30 s per side, pulling the arm across your chest with the shoulder blade pinned back.5 min
- SundayRest
Week 4, lighter
MondayOn the wall · 29 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.14 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 26 min
- Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
- Deadpoint training3-4 moves, 5 tries each: deadpoint to an exact spot on the hold, feet staying on.11 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 27 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- Jump into lock-offJump to catch a hold with your arm already bent 90 degrees.12 min
- SundayRest
Weeks 1 to 3
Week 2: One more try per move, or a slightly bigger move. Week 3: Your hardest moves of the block, with the same number of tries.
MondayOn the wall · 60 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
- Contact strength primerAfter a general warm-up: easy reaches, 5 deadpoints, then 4-6 quick catches on big holds.10 min
- Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 60 min
- Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
- Deadpoint training3-4 moves, 5 tries each: deadpoint to an exact spot on the hold, feet staying on.21 min
- Pull-ups + Push-ups + Hollow body hold18 min
- Lat and pec doorway stretch30 s chest and 30 s lat stretch per side in a doorway, 2 rounds.6 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 59 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- No-impact dynos3 dyno set-ups, 5 jumps each: touch the target, let go before weighting it.14 min
- Jump into lock-offJump to catch a hold with your arm already bent 90 degrees.25 min
- Cross-body shoulder stretch4 holds of 30 s per side, pulling the arm across your chest with the shoulder blade pinned back.5 min
- SundayRest
Week 4, lighter
MondayOn the wall · 44 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
- Contact strength primerAfter a general warm-up: easy reaches, 5 deadpoints, then 4-6 quick catches on big holds.10 min
- Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.14 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 26 min
- Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
- Deadpoint training3-4 moves, 5 tries each: deadpoint to an exact spot on the hold, feet staying on.11 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 36 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- No-impact dynos3 dyno set-ups, 5 jumps each: touch the target, let go before weighting it.9 min
- Jump into lock-offJump to catch a hold with your arm already bent 90 degrees.12 min
- SundayRest
Weeks 1 to 3
Week 2: One more try per move, or a slightly bigger move. Week 3: Your hardest moves of the block, with the same number of tries.
MondayOn the wall · 86 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
- Contact strength primerAfter a general warm-up: easy reaches, 5 deadpoints, then 4-6 quick catches on big holds.10 min
- Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.40 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch + Lat and pec doorway stretch + Frog stretch16 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 89 min
- Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
- Deadpoint training3-4 moves, 5 tries each: deadpoint to an exact spot on the hold, feet staying on.21 min
- Stabilize dynosCatch easy dynamic moves and freeze for 3 s.20 min
- Pull-ups + Push-ups + Hollow body hold18 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch + Lat and pec doorway stretch + Couch stretch (hip flexors)15 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 83 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- Pick-ups5 pick-ups of 8 s per hand on a lifting edge, 3 s to switch hands, 3 min rest.14 min
- No-impact dynos3 dyno set-ups, 5 jumps each: touch the target, let go before weighting it.14 min
- Jump into lock-offJump to catch a hold with your arm already bent 90 degrees.25 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch + Cross-body shoulder stretch + Couch stretch (hip flexors)15 min
- SundayRest
Week 4, lighter
MondayOn the wall · 51 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
- Contact strength primerAfter a general warm-up: easy reaches, 5 deadpoints, then 4-6 quick catches on big holds.10 min
- Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.21 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 36 min
- Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
- Deadpoint training3-4 moves, 5 tries each: deadpoint to an exact spot on the hold, feet staying on.11 min
- Stabilize dynosCatch easy dynamic moves and freeze for 3 s.10 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 36 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- No-impact dynos3 dyno set-ups, 5 jumps each: touch the target, let go before weighting it.9 min
- Jump into lock-offJump to catch a hold with your arm already bent 90 degrees.12 min
- SundayRest
Weeks 1 to 3
Week 2: One more try per move, or a slightly bigger move. Week 3: Your hardest moves of the block, with the same number of tries.
MondayOn the wall · 88 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
- Campus contact hits4 sets of 3-4 fast, precise catches per hand on big holds, 3 min rest.12 min
- Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.40 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch + Lat and pec doorway stretch + Frog stretch16 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 89 min
- Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
- Deadpoint training3-4 moves, 5 tries each: deadpoint to an exact spot on the hold, feet staying on.21 min
- Stabilize dynosCatch easy dynamic moves and freeze for 3 s.20 min
- Pull-ups + Push-ups + Hollow body hold18 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch + Lat and pec doorway stretch + Couch stretch (hip flexors)15 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 82 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- Max hangs (added weight)5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge with added weight, 3 min rest.13 min
- No-impact dynos3 dyno set-ups, 5 jumps each: touch the target, let go before weighting it.14 min
- Jump into lock-offJump to catch a hold with your arm already bent 90 degrees.25 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch + Cross-body shoulder stretch + Couch stretch (hip flexors)15 min
- SundayRest
Week 4, lighter
MondayOn the wall · 46 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
- Campus contact hits4 sets of 3-4 fast, precise catches per hand on big holds, 3 min rest.5 min
- Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.21 min
- TuesdayRest
WednesdaySkills on the wall · 36 min
- Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
- Deadpoint training3-4 moves, 5 tries each: deadpoint to an exact spot on the hold, feet staying on.11 min
- Stabilize dynosCatch easy dynamic moves and freeze for 3 s.10 min
- ThursdayRest
- FridayRest
SaturdayOn the wall · 36 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- No-impact dynos3 dyno set-ups, 5 jumps each: touch the target, let go before weighting it.9 min
- Jump into lock-offJump to catch a hold with your arm already bent 90 degrees.12 min
- SundayRest
Put it in your planner
Add the plan and tick sessions off in the browser planner. It syncs to the iPhone app on the same account. It goes in with the session length and version you picked above.
Want it built around your climbing?
This plan is the same for everyone. Answer seven questions, including your grade and whether anything's sore, and get four weeks made from your answers.
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