Toe hooks

Who it's for

Steep climbing, roofs and anything with an arete. A toe hook is the difference between swinging off and staying on, and most climbers place them far too passively.

It suits you once you're climbing on overhangs regularly and can hold your body in on steep ground for a few moves. Toe hooks can swing you off without warning, so do them over a good mat and warm up your legs and hips first. If your ankle or knee is already hurting, skip this drill and get a physio to look at it.

Common mistakes

• Hooking without pulling. A toe hook that just rests there does nothing. Pull your toes toward your knee and keep the whole leg engaged.
• Letting go suddenly. Release slowly, or the swing takes you off. Deciding when to release is part of the skill.
• Soft shoes for hard hooks. A stiffer toe box holds a hook much better than a soft slipper.
• Only practising on one side. Hook with both legs. Everyone has a weak side and it's usually the one they never train.
• Letting the hips sag. A toe hook works when your core holds the body up toward the hook. Hips hanging low pull the foot off the hold.

How to progress

Start on obvious features, then hunt for hooks on problems you're already trying. Once you can hold one under load, practise moving another limb while the hook is doing the work, which is where the real value is.

How to make it easier

Keep both hands on good holds while you place and pull the hook, so the foot learns the position without taking your whole weight. Pick a big roof edge or a clear arete before trying small holds.

Where it fits in your week

Toe hooks belong in a Base period, when you're building technique, and in a Performance period, when your project needs one. Do them early in a wall session after a proper warm-up, while you're fresh enough to control the release. Once a week is enough alongside your normal climbing.

Questions

What is a toe hook in climbing?

A toe hook in climbing is hooking the top of your shoe over or behind a hold to pull with your foot. You hook your toes around a hold, an arete or a roof edge, then pull your toes toward your knee. It holds your body in to the wall on steep ground and stops you swinging off.

How do you do a toe hook?

To do a toe hook, place the top of your shoe over or behind a hold, then pull your toes toward your knee and keep the leg tight. Use your core to hold your hips up toward the hook. When you're done, release slowly so your body doesn't swing away from the wall.

What's the difference between a toe hook and a heel hook?

A toe hook and a heel hook both let your foot pull, but they use different parts of the shoe. A toe hook pulls with the top of the toes over or behind a hold. A heel hook presses the heel on top of a hold and pulls with the hamstring, which suits holds at or above waist height.

What shoes are best for toe hooks?

Shoes with rubber over the top of the toes are best for toe hooks, because that rubber is what sticks to the hold. A stiffer toe box helps hold a hard hook under load, while a very soft slipper tends to fold. Try a hook in the shop on a real hold before buying if you can.