Backstep drill

Who it's for

Steep climbing where facing the wall makes every reach too short. Turning the hip in is the single biggest reach gain available, and it costs nothing.

It's a good drill from your first few months on steep walls, because the boulders are easy and the load is low. If you already backstep without thinking, use your time on drop knees or twist locks instead, which build on the same hip turn.

Common mistakes

• Standing on the inside edge out of habit. Outside edge of the shoe, so the hip can turn.
• Turning the wrong hip. Same side as the reaching hand.
• Reaching before the hip has turned. Turn, then reach. In that order.
• Only practising it on the good side. Both, every boulder.
• Letting the other foot hang loose. The second foot pushes on a hold too. Without it you swing away from the wall as soon as the hand leaves.

How to progress

Notice the reach difference on purpose: climb a move square, then backstepped, and see how much closer the hold gets. Then look for it on problems you're working, where it usually turns a jump into a static move.

How to make it easier

Start on a wall that's only slightly overhanging, with big footholds you can find easily with the outside of your shoe. Try the backstep on a single move first: step, turn, reach, then step off. Once that feels natural, climb a whole easy boulder backstepping wherever it helps.

Where it fits in your week

The intensity is low and it suits every training period, deload weeks included. Use it as part of your warm-up on a wall day, or as a short technique block before harder climbing. Five or six easy boulders take about twenty minutes and leave plenty in the tank for the rest of the session.

Questions

What is a backstep in climbing?

A backstep is standing on a foothold with the outside edge of your shoe, so your hip turns into the wall and your body goes sideways. It brings your hip and shoulder closer to the wall, which makes your reach longer and takes weight off your arms on steep ground.

How do you do a backstep?

To do a backstep, place the outside edge of the foot on the same side as your reaching hand on a hold. Turn that hip into the wall so your body goes sideways, keep the other foot pushing, then reach. Reaching with your right hand means right foot, right hip, and the other way round for the left.

When should you backstep?

Backstep when a hold is just out of reach with your chest facing the wall, especially on steep ground. It's usually the right choice for long side-to-side moves and reaches off the side of your body. On easy steep boulders, try it on every move and notice which ones get easier.

What's the difference between a backstep and a drop knee?

A backstep and a drop knee both turn your hip into the wall, but the foot works differently. In a backstep you stand on the outside edge of the shoe. In a drop knee you push through the big toe and rotate the knee inward and down, which turns the hip further and suits steeper walls.