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Vary tempo

4-5 boulders, each climbed 3 times: normal speed, very slow, then fast.

Slot
On the wall
Focus
Flow
Time
20 min
Intensity
Moderate
Injury risk
Low
Intervals
12 rounds, 1:00 rest
Equipment
Boulders

How to do it

Pick 4-5 boulders of different styles that you can top. Climb each one 3 times: once at normal speed, once very slowly, and once fast - without getting sloppy. Rest a minute or two between climbs.

Who it’s for

Learning that most boulders have more than one right speed. Climbing the same problem slowly and then fast teaches you which moves actually need momentum.

Common mistakes

  • Fast turning into sloppy. Fast with control, or the lap doesn’t count.
  • Choosing boulders of one style. Vary them. Slabs and steep problems respond very differently to speed.
  • Skipping the slow lap. It’s the one that shows you what you were getting away with.

How to progress

Harder boulders, and then applying it: on a project, deliberately try a section slower and faster before deciding on your beta.

When it fits

The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.

  • Endurance Climb longer before you pump out, by moving efficiently.

Start with a ready-made block

A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.