Vary tempo
4-5 boulders, each climbed 3 times: normal speed, very slow, then fast.
- Slot
- On the wall
- Focus
- Flow
- Time
- 20 min
- Intensity
- Moderate intensity
- Injury risk
- Low injury risk
- Equipment
- Boulders
How to do it
Pick 4-5 boulders of different styles that you can top. Climb each one 3 times: once at normal speed, once very slowly, and once fast - without getting sloppy. Rest a minute or two between climbs.
Run it now
The same timer as the app: a five-second get-ready, then every round and rest counted down with a beep. Keep this page open while you train.
Vary tempo
0:00 / 20:05
Ready
20:05
12 rounds
4-5 boulders, each climbed 3 times: normal speed, very slow, then fast.
High risk: read the protocol, stop if anything feels wrong.
- 12
- rounds
- 1:00
- rest
- 20:05
- total
Done.
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Take the quizWho it's for
Learning that most boulders have more than one right speed. Climbing the same problem slowly and then fast teaches you which moves actually need momentum.
Common mistakes
- Fast turning into sloppy. Fast with control, or the lap doesn't count.
- Choosing boulders of one style. Vary them. Slabs and steep problems respond very differently to speed.
- Skipping the slow lap. It's the one that shows you what you were getting away with.
How to progress
Harder boulders, and then applying it: on a project, deliberately try a section slower and faster before deciding on your beta.
When it fits
The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.
Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.
Endurance Climb longer before you pump out, by moving efficiently.
Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.
Deload Train less, let your fingers recover, keep moving.