Heel-toe cams and knee bars
Practice heel-toe cams and knee bars on 4-5 steep features, 3 tries each.
- Slot
- On the wall
- Focus
- Technique
- Time
- 20 min
- Intensity
- Moderate
- Injury risk
- Low
- Equipment
- Boulders, Overhang
How to do it
A heel-toe cam is pressing your heel down on one hold while your toes press up against another hold or the wall above it, locking the foot in place. A knee bar is wedging your lower thigh against a hold or roof while your toes push on a foothold below. On steep terrain with big features, find 4-5 spots where one of these works. Get into the position, let go with one hand and shake it out, then continue. Do each 3 times. Knee pads help for knee bars.
When it fits
Training periods this block is tagged for in Blok Sessions.
- Base Build repeatable volume, movement quality and aerobic capacity.
- Strength Increase pulling and finger strength with controlled load.
- Power Develop explosive power, momentum and coordination.
- Power Endurance Sustain power output across repeated hard efforts.
- Performance Peak for outcomes with mental focus and route reading.
- Deload Reduce load, restore tissue and mobility, stay moving.