Board weakness setter
Set 3-6 short board problems around one weakness, climb each 3-5 times.
- Slot
- On the wall
- Focus
- Problem solving
- Time
- 35 min
- Intensity
- Moderate intensity
- Injury risk
- Moderate injury risk
- Equipment
- Training board, Spray wall
How to do it
Pick one weakness, e.g. left-hand lock-offs, bad feet, compression, or wide moves. On a board or spray wall, set 3-6 short problems (4-6 moves) that all train it. Climb each one 3-5 times, adjusting holds so it's hard but possible, and rest 2-3 minutes between attempts.
Run it now
The same timer as the app: a five-second get-ready, then every round and rest counted down with a beep. Keep this page open while you train.
Board weakness setter
0:00 / 34:50
Ready
34:50
9 rounds
Set 3-6 short board problems around one weakness, climb each 3-5 times.
High risk: read the protocol, stop if anything feels wrong.
- 9
- rounds
- 2:00
- rest
- 34:50
- total
Done.
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Take the quizWho it's for
Turning a known weakness into training. Setting four to six short problems that all hammer the same thing gets you far more focused practice than hoping the gym sets something similar.
Common mistakes
- Picking a vague weakness. 'Steep climbing' is too broad. 'Left-hand lock-offs' or 'bad feet on the forty' gives you something to set for.
- Problems that are too long. Four to six moves. You want lots of attempts on the shape, not endurance.
- Setting them too hard. Hard but possible. If nothing goes, you get no repetitions.
- Never adjusting. Move a hold when a problem doesn't work. First drafts rarely do.
How to progress
Keep the same weakness for a few weeks rather than switching every session, and re-set the problems slightly harder as they become doable. Then test it on real boulders in that style.
When it fits
The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.
Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.
Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.