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Double dynos / paddle dynos

Build 1-2 boulders of 6-8 moves around a paddle dyno: tap one hold, bounce to the next.

Slot
On the wall
Focus
Coordination
Time
35 min
Intensity
High
Injury risk
Moderate
Equipment
Boulders, Overhang

How to do it

A paddle dyno is a double jump: you slap one hold only to push off it and immediately reach the next, never really holding the first. Using existing holds, build 1-2 boulders of 6-8 moves with a paddle dyno as the main move, and keep the other moves at a similar difficulty. Practice the paddle on its own first, then link the whole boulder. Rest 2-3 minutes between attempts.

Who it’s for

Modern comp-style bouldering, and anyone who freezes when a problem has no static solution. The paddle is a skill you either have or don’t, and it’s learnable in a few sessions.

Common mistakes

  • Trying to hold the first hold. You don’t. It’s a push-off point. Holding it kills the momentum you just made.
  • Building a boulder where the paddle is the only hard move. Keep the other moves at a similar level, or you’re just doing one move with a warm-up attached.
  • Going straight to the full link. Practise the paddle on its own until it works twice in a row, then build the boulder around it.
  • Short rests. Coordination goes before strength does. Two to three minutes between attempts, and stop when the catches get scrappy.

How to progress

Move the second hold further, then make it worse, then change the angle so you’re paddling sideways rather than straight up. Filming yourself is worth more here than on almost any other drill.

When it fits

The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.

  • Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.

Start with a ready-made block

A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.