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No-impact dynos

3 dyno set-ups, 5 jumps each: touch the target, let go before weighting it. 30 s between jumps.

Slot
On the wall
Focus
Coordination
Time
14 min
Intensity
Moderate
Injury risk
Moderate
Intervals
15 rounds, 30s rest
Equipment
Boulders, Overhang

How to do it

A dyno is a jump between holds. On a slightly overhanging wall, find big holds at chest height and a target set of jugs above them. Set up with one foot higher than the other. Push from your feet, drive your hips toward the target and jump, but only touch the target holds and let go before you take any weight on them, landing back on the mat. Do 5 jumps from that set-up with 30 seconds between them, then 5 with the other foot higher, then 5 with both feet level. Rest 2 minutes between set-ups. If it's easy, use a diagonal target or a steeper wall.

Who it’s for

Climbers who can jump but arrive at the target late, wide or with one hand. Because you never take the target hold, you get to practise the launch many times without the load of catching it on your fingers and shoulders. It’s still jumping and landing, so it isn’t a rest-day drill.

Common mistakes

  • Grabbing the target. Touch it and let go. Once you weight it, it’s a normal dyno with the load that comes with one.
  • Jumping with your arms. The push comes from your feet and your hips drive toward the target. Pulling with your arms first gives you a short, flat jump.
  • Landing stiff. You’re dropping back to the mat on every jump. Check the mat under you and land with soft knees.
  • Favouring one set-up. Most climbers have a side that feels wrong. That side is why the three foot positions are there.
  • Rushing the next jump. Tired jumps are slow jumps. Take the full rest so each one is a real attempt.

How to progress

Once the touches are landing on the right spot from all three set-ups, move the target further away or off to the side, or go steeper. Then take the idea onto real dyno problems: touch the finishing hold a few times before you try to catch it.

When it fits

The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.

  • Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.
  • Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.
  • Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.

Start with a ready-made block

A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.