First moves on too-hard boulders
Only the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.
- Slot
- On the wall
- Focus
- Finger strength
- Time
- 30 min
- Intensity
- Max intensity
- Injury risk
- Moderate injury risk
- Equipment
- Boulders, Timer
How to do it
Pick 4 varied boulders at least one grade harder than your project grade (the hardest you're working on). Work only on the first one or two moves. Give each boulder a maximum of 3 attempts, resting 2-3 minutes between attempts, and focus on doing those few moves as well as possible rather than getting higher.
Run it now
The same timer as the app: a five-second get-ready, then every round and rest counted down with a beep. Keep this page open while you train.
First moves on too-hard boulders
0:00 / 30:05
Ready
30:05
12 rounds
Only the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.
High risk: read the protocol, stop if anything feels wrong.
- 12
- rounds
- 2:00
- rest
- 30:05
- total
Done.
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Take the quizWho it's for
Getting on things well above your grade without the frustration of never topping anything. The first moves of a hard boulder are often doable, and they teach you a lot.
Common mistakes
- Trying to get higher. One or two moves. That's the drill.
- More than three attempts. Move on. There are four boulders to get through.
- Picking four similar boulders. Vary them, or you only learn one shape.
How to progress
Go further above your grade rather than further up the boulder. Once a first move goes easily, that boulder has nothing left to teach here.
When it fits
The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.
Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.
Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.