Strength block
A strength plan for boulderers, 4 days a week
Small holds are stopping you. Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
- 4 sessions a week
- 60 minutes each
- 4 weeks, the last one lighter
The four weeks
Weeks one to three train finger strength, pulling strength and stability, on the same days each week. Week four is a deload: the same days with less work, so you start the next block fresh. The plan leaves out the high-risk exercises. If you've bouldered for more than three years and nothing is sore, add the version with them in.
Week 1
MondayOn the wall · 60 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp20 min
- Limit movement bite30 min
- Recruitment pulls10 min
TuesdaySkills on the wall · 58 min
- Movement quality warm-up15 min
- Toe-pull tension drill23 min
- Weighted pull-ups20 min
WednesdayRest
ThursdayOn the wall · 57 min
- Boulder and hang ramp15 min
- First moves on too-hard boulders30 min
- Offset pull-ups12 min
FridayRest
SaturdaySkills on the wall · 58 min
- Wall ramp15 min
- Heel-hook load repeats23 min
- Weighted pull-ups20 min
SundayRest
Week 2
MondayOn the wall · 60 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp20 min
- Limit movement bite30 min
- Recruitment pulls10 min
TuesdaySkills on the wall · 58 min
- Movement quality warm-up15 min
- Toe-pull tension drill23 min
- Weighted pull-ups20 min
WednesdayRest
ThursdayOn the wall · 57 min
- Boulder and hang ramp15 min
- First moves on too-hard boulders30 min
- Offset pull-ups12 min
FridayRest
SaturdaySkills on the wall · 58 min
- Wall ramp15 min
- Heel-hook load repeats23 min
- Weighted pull-ups20 min
SundayRest
Week 3
MondayOn the wall · 60 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp20 min
- Limit movement bite30 min
- Recruitment pulls10 min
TuesdaySkills on the wall · 58 min
- Movement quality warm-up15 min
- Toe-pull tension drill23 min
- Weighted pull-ups20 min
WednesdayRest
ThursdayOn the wall · 57 min
- Boulder and hang ramp15 min
- First moves on too-hard boulders30 min
- Offset pull-ups12 min
FridayRest
SaturdaySkills on the wall · 58 min
- Wall ramp15 min
- Heel-hook load repeats23 min
- Weighted pull-ups20 min
SundayRest
Week 4, lighter
MondayOn the wall · 45 min
- Wall ramp15 min
- Limit movement bite30 min
TuesdaySkills on the wall · 45 min
- Movement quality warm-up15 min
- Quiet climbing20 min
- Forearm flush10 min
WednesdayRest
ThursdayOn the wall · 45 min
FridayRest
SaturdaySkills on the wall · 40 min
- Warm-up on the wall10 min
- Climb with flow20 min
- Forearm flush10 min
SundayRest
Train it with the timer
Add the plan and tick sessions off in the browser planner. It syncs to the iPhone app on the same account.