A strength plan for boulderers, 4 days a week

Week 2: Add 2 kg to any hang you finished with time to spare in both sessions last week, and swap one limit problem for a harder one. Week 3: Your heaviest week. Keep the same hangs and attempts, at the best loads you've managed.

1. MondayOn the wall · 45 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 44 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • 4x44 boulders, each climbed 4 times within 4 min, then 4 min rest.28 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 45 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • First moves on too-hard bouldersOnly the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.30 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 45 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Climb with full-body tension5-6 flash-level overhangs, 2-3 times each, keeping both feet on the whole way.25 min
   • Cross-body shoulder stretch4 holds of 30 s per side, pulling the arm across your chest with the shoulder blade pinned back.5 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 29 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.14 min

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 28 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • 4x44 boulders, each climbed 4 times within 4 min, then 4 min rest.12 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 29 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • First moves on too-hard bouldersOnly the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.14 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 27 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Climb with full-body tension5-6 flash-level overhangs, 2-3 times each, keeping both feet on the whole way.12 min
7. SundayRest

Week 2: Add 2 kg to any hang you finished with time to spare in both sessions last week, and swap one limit problem for a harder one. Week 3: Your heaviest week. Keep the same hangs and attempts, at the best loads you've managed.

1. MondayOn the wall · 59 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Finger maintenanceAfter warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.9 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 59 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • 4x44 boulders, each climbed 4 times within 4 min, then 4 min rest.28 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch + Lat and pec doorway stretch + Frog stretch16 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 59 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Pick-ups5 pick-ups of 8 s per hand on a lifting edge, 3 s to switch hands, 3 min rest.14 min
   • First moves on too-hard bouldersOnly the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.30 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 58 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Climb with full-body tension5-6 flash-level overhangs, 2-3 times each, keeping both feet on the whole way.25 min
   • Pull-ups + Push-ups + Hollow body hold18 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 39 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Finger maintenanceAfter warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.5 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.14 min

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 33 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • 4x44 boulders, each climbed 4 times within 4 min, then 4 min rest.12 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 36 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Pick-ups5 pick-ups of 8 s per hand on a lifting edge, 3 s to switch hands, 3 min rest.7 min
   • First moves on too-hard bouldersOnly the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.14 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 27 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Climb with full-body tension5-6 flash-level overhangs, 2-3 times each, keeping both feet on the whole way.12 min
7. SundayRest

Week 2: Add 2 kg to any hang you finished with time to spare in both sessions last week, and swap one limit problem for a harder one. Week 3: Your heaviest week. Keep the same hangs and attempts, at the best loads you've managed.

1. MondayOn the wall · 59 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Finger maintenanceAfter warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.9 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 59 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • 4x44 boulders, each climbed 4 times within 4 min, then 4 min rest.28 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch + Lat and pec doorway stretch + Frog stretch16 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 58 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Max hangs (added weight)5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge with added weight, 3 min rest.13 min
   • First moves on too-hard bouldersOnly the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.30 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 58 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Climb with full-body tension5-6 flash-level overhangs, 2-3 times each, keeping both feet on the whole way.25 min
   • Pull-ups + Push-ups + Hollow body hold18 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 39 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Finger maintenanceAfter warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.5 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.14 min

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 33 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • 4x44 boulders, each climbed 4 times within 4 min, then 4 min rest.12 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 36 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Max hangs (added weight)5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge with added weight, 3 min rest.7 min
   • First moves on too-hard bouldersOnly the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.14 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 27 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Climb with full-body tension5-6 flash-level overhangs, 2-3 times each, keeping both feet on the whole way.12 min
7. SundayRest

Week 2: Add 2 kg to any hang you finished with time to spare in both sessions last week, and swap one limit problem for a harder one. Week 3: Your heaviest week. Keep the same hangs and attempts, at the best loads you've managed.

1. MondayOn the wall · 89 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Pick-ups5 pick-ups of 8 s per hand on a lifting edge, 3 s to switch hands, 3 min rest.14 min
   • Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.40 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch + Lat and pec doorway stretch + Couch stretch (hip flexors)15 min

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 89 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • 3x3 boulder repeats6 sets of one boulder 3 times, 1 min rest between tries, 3 min between sets.41 min
   • Up-and-down boulders5 easy boulders, 2 laps each: climb up, then all the way back down.25 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch + Pigeon pose8 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 84 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Pick-ups5 pick-ups of 8 s per hand on a lifting edge, 3 s to switch hands, 3 min rest.14 min
   • Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.40 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch + Cross-body shoulder stretch + Couch stretch (hip flexors)15 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 89 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Build twist-lock movesBuild 3-4 moves where you turn your hip into the wall and lock off to reach.25 min
   • Climb with full-body tension5-6 flash-level overhangs, 2-3 times each, keeping both feet on the whole way.25 min
   • Pull-ups + Push-ups + Hollow body hold18 min
   • Lat and pec doorway stretch30 s chest and 30 s lat stretch per side in a doorway, 2 rounds.6 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 48 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Pick-ups5 pick-ups of 8 s per hand on a lifting edge, 3 s to switch hands, 3 min rest.7 min
   • Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.21 min

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • 3x3 boulder repeats6 sets of one boulder 3 times, 1 min rest between tries, 3 min between sets.19 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 43 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Pick-ups5 pick-ups of 8 s per hand on a lifting edge, 3 s to switch hands, 3 min rest.7 min
   • Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.21 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 27 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Climb with full-body tension5-6 flash-level overhangs, 2-3 times each, keeping both feet on the whole way.12 min
7. SundayRest

Week 2: Add 2 kg to any hang you finished with time to spare in both sessions last week, and swap one limit problem for a harder one. Week 3: Your heaviest week. Keep the same hangs and attempts, at the best loads you've managed.

1. MondayOn the wall · 89 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Max hangs (added weight)5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge with added weight, 3 min rest.13 min
   • Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.40 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch + Lat and pec doorway stretch + Frog stretch16 min

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 89 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • 3x3 boulder repeats6 sets of one boulder 3 times, 1 min rest between tries, 3 min between sets.41 min
   • Up-and-down boulders5 easy boulders, 2 laps each: climb up, then all the way back down.25 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch + Pigeon pose8 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 83 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Max hangs (added weight)5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge with added weight, 3 min rest.13 min
   • Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.40 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch + Cross-body shoulder stretch + Couch stretch (hip flexors)15 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 89 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Build twist-lock movesBuild 3-4 moves where you turn your hip into the wall and lock off to reach.25 min
   • Climb with full-body tension5-6 flash-level overhangs, 2-3 times each, keeping both feet on the whole way.25 min
   • Pull-ups + Push-ups + Hollow body hold18 min
   • Lat and pec doorway stretch30 s chest and 30 s lat stretch per side in a doorway, 2 rounds.6 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 48 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Max hangs (added weight)5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge with added weight, 3 min rest.7 min
   • Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.21 min

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • 3x3 boulder repeats6 sets of one boulder 3 times, 1 min rest between tries, 3 min between sets.19 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 43 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Max hangs (added weight)5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge with added weight, 3 min rest.7 min
   • Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.21 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 27 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Climb with full-body tension5-6 flash-level overhangs, 2-3 times each, keeping both feet on the whole way.12 min
7. SundayRest