A strength plan for boulderers, 2 days a week

Week 2: Add 2 kg to any hang you finished with time to spare in both sessions last week, and swap one limit problem for a harder one. Week 3: Your heaviest week. Keep the same hangs and attempts, at the best loads you've managed.

1. MondayRest

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 45 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min
3. WednesdayRest
4. ThursdayRest

5. FridayOn the wall · 45 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • First moves on too-hard bouldersOnly the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.30 min
6. SaturdayRest
7. SundayRest

1. MondayRest

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 29 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.14 min
3. WednesdayRest
4. ThursdayRest

5. FridayOn the wall · 29 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • First moves on too-hard bouldersOnly the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.14 min
6. SaturdayRest
7. SundayRest

Week 2: Add 2 kg to any hang you finished with time to spare in both sessions last week, and swap one limit problem for a harder one. Week 3: Your heaviest week. Keep the same hangs and attempts, at the best loads you've managed.

1. MondayRest

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 59 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Finger maintenanceAfter warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.9 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min
3. WednesdayRest
4. ThursdayRest

5. FridayOn the wall · 59 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Pick-ups5 pick-ups of 8 s per hand on a lifting edge, 3 s to switch hands, 3 min rest.14 min
   • First moves on too-hard bouldersOnly the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.30 min
6. SaturdayRest
7. SundayRest

1. MondayRest

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 39 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Finger maintenanceAfter warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.5 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.14 min
3. WednesdayRest
4. ThursdayRest

5. FridayOn the wall · 36 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Pick-ups5 pick-ups of 8 s per hand on a lifting edge, 3 s to switch hands, 3 min rest.7 min
   • First moves on too-hard bouldersOnly the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.14 min
6. SaturdayRest
7. SundayRest

Week 2: Add 2 kg to any hang you finished with time to spare in both sessions last week, and swap one limit problem for a harder one. Week 3: Your heaviest week. Keep the same hangs and attempts, at the best loads you've managed.

1. MondayRest

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 59 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Finger maintenanceAfter warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.9 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min
3. WednesdayRest
4. ThursdayRest

5. FridayOn the wall · 58 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Max hangs (added weight)5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge with added weight, 3 min rest.13 min
   • First moves on too-hard bouldersOnly the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.30 min
6. SaturdayRest
7. SundayRest

1. MondayRest

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 39 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Finger maintenanceAfter warming up, 5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge at moderate effort, 2 min rest.5 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.14 min
3. WednesdayRest
4. ThursdayRest

5. FridayOn the wall · 36 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Max hangs (added weight)5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge with added weight, 3 min rest.7 min
   • First moves on too-hard bouldersOnly the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.14 min
6. SaturdayRest
7. SundayRest

Week 2: Add 2 kg to any hang you finished with time to spare in both sessions last week, and swap one limit problem for a harder one. Week 3: Your heaviest week. Keep the same hangs and attempts, at the best loads you've managed.

1. MondayRest

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 90 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Pick-ups5 pick-ups of 8 s per hand on a lifting edge, 3 s to switch hands, 3 min rest.14 min
   • Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.40 min
   • Square dance3 rounds of 2 min nonstop reach-and-match on a board, 2 min rest.10 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
3. WednesdayRest
4. ThursdayRest

5. FridayOn the wall · 90 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Pick-ups5 pick-ups of 8 s per hand on a lifting edge, 3 s to switch hands, 3 min rest.14 min
   • Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.40 min
   • Six one-minute reps6 one-minute windows: climb a 4-6 move problem, rest for the rest of the minute.6 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch + Cross-body shoulder stretch + Couch stretch (hip flexors)15 min
6. SaturdayRest
7. SundayRest

1. MondayRest

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 48 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Pick-ups5 pick-ups of 8 s per hand on a lifting edge, 3 s to switch hands, 3 min rest.7 min
   • Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.21 min
3. WednesdayRest
4. ThursdayRest

5. FridayOn the wall · 43 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Pick-ups5 pick-ups of 8 s per hand on a lifting edge, 3 s to switch hands, 3 min rest.7 min
   • Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.21 min
6. SaturdayRest
7. SundayRest

Week 2: Add 2 kg to any hang you finished with time to spare in both sessions last week, and swap one limit problem for a harder one. Week 3: Your heaviest week. Keep the same hangs and attempts, at the best loads you've managed.

1. MondayRest

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 89 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Max hangs (added weight)5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge with added weight, 3 min rest.13 min
   • Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.40 min
   • Square dance3 rounds of 2 min nonstop reach-and-match on a board, 2 min rest.10 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
3. WednesdayRest
4. ThursdayRest

5. FridayOn the wall · 89 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Max hangs (added weight)5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge with added weight, 3 min rest.13 min
   • Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.40 min
   • Six one-minute reps6 one-minute windows: climb a 4-6 move problem, rest for the rest of the minute.6 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch + Cross-body shoulder stretch + Couch stretch (hip flexors)15 min
6. SaturdayRest
7. SundayRest

1. MondayRest

2. TuesdayOn the wall · 48 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Max hangs (added weight)5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge with added weight, 3 min rest.7 min
   • Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.21 min
3. WednesdayRest
4. ThursdayRest

5. FridayOn the wall · 43 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Max hangs (added weight)5 hangs of 10 s on a 20 mm edge with added weight, 3 min rest.7 min
   • Limit boulder rotation3-4 limit boulders, 3 attempts each, 3-4 min rest.21 min
6. SaturdayRest
7. SundayRest