Long-duration density hangs
8 hangs of 30 s at moderate effort, 2 min rest.
- Slot
- Strength
- Focus
- Finger strength
- Time
- 18 min
- Intensity
- Moderate
- Injury risk
- Moderate
- Intervals
- 8 × 30s on, 2:00 off
- Equipment
- Edge 20mm, Timer
How to do it
On a medium-size hangboard edge, hang with both hands for 30 seconds at an effort that feels moderate - you should finish each hang knowing you could hold on for 10 or more seconds longer. Rest 2 minutes between hangs and do 8. Keep your shoulders engaged. Increase the hang time before making it harder.
Who it’s for
Building tendon capacity without maximum load. Long, moderate hangs suit climbers coming back from a quiet spell, or anyone who wants finger work in a base period.
Common mistakes
- Making it hard. Thirty seconds at an effort you could hold for forty or more. If you’re failing hangs, the load is wrong for this protocol.
- Adding weight instead of time. Time first. Longer hangs are the progression here.
- A tiny edge. Use a medium edge. Small edges concentrate load in exactly the way this protocol is trying to avoid.
- Hanging passively for thirty seconds. Shoulders stay engaged the whole time, which is harder than it sounds at that duration.
How to progress
Extend the hangs before you touch the load, then add hangs, and only then add weight. It sits well early in a training block, with max hangs later once the capacity is there.
When it fits
The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.
- Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.
- Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
- Endurance Climb longer before you pump out, by moving efficiently.
- Deload Train less, let your fingers recover, keep moving.
Related blocks
Start with a ready-made block
A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.