Open-hand 7/3 repeaters

5 sets of 6 x (7 s open-hand hang, 3 s off), 3 min rest between sets.

Slot: Strength
Focus: Finger strength
Time: 17 min
Intensity: High
Injury risk: High
Intervals: 30 × 7s on, 3s off
Equipment: Edge 20mm, Timer

How to do it

Only after a full warm-up. On a hangboard edge, hang open-handed (fingers only slightly bent, like holding a sloper). Hang 7 seconds, rest 3 seconds, and repeat 6 times - that's one 1-minute set. Rest 3 minutes. Do 5 sets. Choose the load so the last hang of each set is hard but clean, and make it easier right away if your fingers curl into a crimp or your shoulders sag.

High injury risk. Only do this fully warmed up, rested and injury-free, and stop at the first sign of pain in your fingers or elbows. Training is at your own risk.

Who it’s for

The same protocol as half-crimp repeaters, in the position that slopers, pockets and rounded edges ask for. Worth running alongside crimp work rather than instead of it.

Common mistakes

Curling into a crimp when it gets hard. The moment your fingers bend up, the set is over. Make it easier straight away.
Shoulders sagging. Open hand tempts you to hang passively. Keep the shoulders engaged.
Using the same load as your crimp sets. Most people are weaker open-handed. Set the load from this position, not from the other one.
Both protocols in one week at full load. Alternate them, or run one as the main and the other lighter.

How to progress

Set before load, as with the half-crimp version. If you’re using this to prepare for slopers specifically, move to a rounded hold rather than adding weight on the edge.

When it fits

The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.

Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.
Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
Power Endurance Keep your power through one hard move after another.

Start with a ready-made block

A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.