Minimum edge hangs
4 hangs of 10 s on the smallest edge you can hold for about 15 s, 3 min rest.
- Slot
- Strength
- Focus
- Finger strength
- Time
- 10 min
- Intensity
- Max intensity
- Injury risk
- High injury risk
- Equipment
- Hangboard, Timer
High injury risk. Only do this fully warmed up, rested and injury-free, and stop at the first sign of pain in your fingers or elbows. Training is at your own risk.
How to do it
Eva López's bodyweight max-hang method. After a full warm-up, find the smallest edge you can hang from with both hands for about 15 seconds in a half crimp. That's your training edge. Hang 10 seconds (stop a few seconds before you'd fail), rest 3 minutes, and do 4 hangs. When 10 seconds feels easy, move to a smaller edge. Twice a week at most, 48 hours or more apart. Not for beginners: climb regularly for at least a year or two first.
Run it now
The same timer as the app: a five-second get-ready, then every round and rest counted down with a beep. Keep this page open while you train.
Minimum edge hangs
0:00 / 9:45
Ready
9:45
4 rounds
4 hangs of 10 s on the smallest edge you can hold for about 15 s, 3 min rest.
High risk: read the protocol, stop if anything feels wrong.
- 4
- rounds
- 10s
- hang
- 3:00
- rest
- 9:45
- total
Done.
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Take the quizWho it's for
Climbers with at least a year or two of consistent volume and no current finger niggles. If you're still making fast gains just from climbing, this will add injury risk without adding much on top.
Common mistakes
- Testing your minimum edge cold. Find it at the end of a full warm-up. The edge you can hold warm isn't the edge you can hold on arrival.
- Hanging to failure. Stop with two or three seconds in hand. This is a strength stimulus, not a test, and failing reps is how you get hurt.
- Sliding into a full crimp when it gets hard. Half crimp for the whole ten seconds or the hang doesn't count.
- Hanging passively. Keep the shoulders engaged and a slight bend in the elbows rather than dangling off the joint.
- Doing them after a hard session. Max effort means fresh. Put them at the start of a day, or on their own.
How to progress
When ten seconds is genuinely comfortable, drop edge size rather than adding hangs. If you've run out of smaller edges, stay on the current one and start adding weight instead. Twice a week at most, 48 hours or more apart.
When it fits
The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.
Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.
Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.