Minimum edge hangs
4 hangs of 10 s on the smallest edge you can hold for about 15 s, 3 min rest.
- Slot
- Strength
- Focus
- Finger strength
- Time
- 10 min
- Intensity
- Max
- Injury risk
- High
- Intervals
- 4 × 10s on, 3:00 off
- Equipment
- Hangboard, Timer
How to do it
Eva Lopez's bodyweight max-hang method. After a full warm-up, find the smallest edge you can hang from with both hands for about 15 seconds in a half crimp - that's your training edge. Hang 10 seconds (stop a few seconds before you'd fail), rest 3 minutes, and do 4 hangs. When 10 seconds feels easy, move to a smaller edge. Not for beginners: climb regularly for at least a year or two first.
High injury risk. Only do this fully warmed up, rested and injury-free, and stop at the first sign of pain in your fingers or elbows. Training is at your own risk.
When it fits
Training periods this block is tagged for in Blok Sessions.
- Strength Increase pulling and finger strength with controlled load.
- Power Develop explosive power, momentum and coordination.
- Performance Peak for outcomes with mental focus and route reading.