One-arm dead hangs
3 sets of a 10 s hang on each arm, 3 min rest. Use assistance so it's hard but controlled.
- Slot
- Strength
- Focus
- Finger strength
- Time
- 7 min
- Intensity
- Max
- Injury risk
- High
- Intervals
- 3 × 20s on, 3:00 off
- Equipment
- Edge 20mm, Pulley, Added weight, Timer
How to do it
On a bar or big hold, hang from one arm for 10 seconds with the shoulder engaged (pulled down, not hanging loose), then switch to the other arm for 10 seconds. Rest 3 minutes. Do 3 sets. Use a resistance band, a pulley, or a foot on a chair to take off weight, so each hang is hard but controlled. Only for experienced climbers - this puts a big load on fingers and shoulders.
High injury risk. Only do this fully warmed up, rested and injury-free, and stop at the first sign of pain in your fingers or elbows. Training is at your own risk.
When it fits
Training periods this block is tagged for in Blok Sessions.
- Strength Increase pulling and finger strength with controlled load.
- Power Develop explosive power, momentum and coordination.
- Performance Peak for outcomes with mental focus and route reading.