Pinch block lifts

Who it's for

Pinch strength, which almost nothing else in a normal session trains. If you fall off volumes and pinches while your crimp strength keeps improving, this is the gap.

It suits climbers with some training behind them. In your first year or so, pinching real holds on the wall builds most of what you need. If a thumb or wrist hurts, get a physio to look at it before you load it.

Common mistakes

• A bent wrist. Straight wrist through the lift. A collapsed wrist takes the thumb out of the movement.
• Squeezing with the fingers only. The thumb is doing half the work. If it isn't tired afterwards, check your position.
• Different weights per hand. Same weight both sides, and let the weaker hand set it.
• Yanking the block off the floor. Build the pull, then hold ten seconds.
• Short rests. Two minutes between lifts feels long for a ten-second effort. Take it, so every lift is at full strength.

How to progress

Add weight in small steps once ten seconds feels solid on both hands. A wider block is harder than a heavier one, so changing width is a second axis when the weight gets awkward to load.

How to make it easier

Take weight off until you can hold a straight wrist for the full ten seconds. A narrower block is easier too. If the lift is still too much, hold for less time at first and build back to ten seconds.

Where it fits in your week

Pinch block lifts belong in a Strength or Power period, and in a Performance period while you're keeping strength topped up. Do them after climbing, or on a strength day away from the wall, after a warm-up. Doing them before a hard climbing session leaves your thumbs and forearms tired for the wall.

Questions

What is a pinch block lift?

A pinch block lift is picking up a loaded block between your thumb and fingers and holding it just off the floor. You pinch with one hand, lift, hold for 10 seconds with a straight wrist, then switch. It trains the thumb and the pinch position that crimps and hangboard edges leave out.

How heavy should a pinch block lift be?

Heavy enough that 10 seconds is hard while you can still keep a straight wrist the whole time. Your weaker hand sets the weight, and both hands use it. If the block tips or your wrist bends before the ten seconds are up, take weight off and build back up.

Is pinch block training worth it for climbing?

Yes, if pinches and volumes keep spitting you off. Most finger training uses edges, so the thumb gets very little direct work, and a pinch block is a simple way to load it. If you climb plenty of pinches already and they feel fine, it's lower down your list.

Should you do pinch block lifts before or after climbing?

After, or on a day you're not climbing hard. They're a high-effort finger exercise, so doing them first leaves your thumbs and forearms tired for the wall. If you do want them first, warm up properly and keep the climbing afterwards easy.