An endurance plan for boulderers, 2 days a week
You pump out before the session ends. Climb longer before you pump out, by moving efficiently.
2 sessions a week45, 60 or 90 minutes4 weeks, the last one lighter
The four weeks
Weeks one to three train endurance, flow and technique on the same days, and each week asks a bit more of you. Week four is lighter: the same days with less work, so you start the next block fresh. The standard version leaves out the high-risk exercises.
Weeks 1 to 3
Week 2: Add one bout to the traverse and 5 problems to the circuit. Week 3: The same volume a grade harder.
- MondayRest
TuesdayOn the wall · 44 min
- Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
- Continuous climbing lap3 rounds of nonstop climbing until pumped, 5 min rest between rounds.25 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch + Behind-the-back towel stretch9 min
- WednesdayRest
- ThursdayRest
FridayOn the wall · 44 min
- Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
- Continuous climbing lap3 rounds of nonstop climbing until pumped, 5 min rest between rounds.25 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch + Behind-the-back towel stretch9 min
- SaturdayRest
- SundayRest
Week 4, lighter
- MondayRest
TuesdayOn the wall · 31 min
- Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
- Continuous climbing lap3 rounds of nonstop climbing until pumped, 5 min rest between rounds.15 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
- WednesdayRest
- ThursdayRest
FridayOn the wall · 31 min
- Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
- Continuous climbing lap3 rounds of nonstop climbing until pumped, 5 min rest between rounds.15 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
- SaturdayRest
- SundayRest
Weeks 1 to 3
Week 2: Add one bout to the traverse and 5 problems to the circuit. Week 3: The same volume a grade harder.
- MondayRest
TuesdayOn the wall · 60 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
- Aerobic restoration traverseEasy nonstop traversing in 10 min bouts, 2 min rest.34 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
- WednesdayRest
- ThursdayRest
FridayOn the wall · 59 min
- Full warm-up (floor and wall)3-5 min of light cardio, shoulder/hip/wrist mobility, then 6-10 very easy boulders.15 min
- Density boulderingAs many clean boulders 2-3 grades below your max as you can, 1-2 min rest.35 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch + Behind-the-back towel stretch9 min
- SaturdayRest
- SundayRest
Week 4, lighter
- MondayRest
TuesdayOn the wall · 48 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
- Aerobic restoration traverseEasy nonstop traversing in 10 min bouts, 2 min rest.22 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
- WednesdayRest
- ThursdayRest
FridayOn the wall · 39 min
- Full warm-up (floor and wall)3-5 min of light cardio, shoulder/hip/wrist mobility, then 6-10 very easy boulders.15 min
- Density boulderingAs many clean boulders 2-3 grades below your max as you can, 1-2 min rest.18 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
- SaturdayRest
- SundayRest
Weeks 1 to 3
Week 2: Add one bout to the traverse and 5 problems to the circuit. Week 3: The same volume a grade harder.
- MondayRest
TuesdayOn the wall · 89 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
- Beta before microbetaOne move that stops you, 8 tries, one change per try: sequence first, then body, details last.19 min
- Aerobic restoration traverseEasy nonstop traversing in 10 min bouts, 2 min rest.34 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch + Lat and pec doorway stretch + Frog stretch16 min
- WednesdayRest
- ThursdayRest
FridayOn the wall · 89 min
- Full warm-up (floor and wall)3-5 min of light cardio, shoulder/hip/wrist mobility, then 6-10 very easy boulders.15 min
- First moves on too-hard bouldersOnly the first 1-2 moves of 4 boulders above your project grade, max 3 attempts each.30 min
- Density boulderingAs many clean boulders 2-3 grades below your max as you can, 1-2 min rest.35 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch + Behind-the-back towel stretch9 min
- SaturdayRest
- SundayRest
Week 4, lighter
- MondayRest
TuesdayOn the wall · 48 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
- Aerobic restoration traverseEasy nonstop traversing in 10 min bouts, 2 min rest.22 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
- WednesdayRest
- ThursdayRest
FridayOn the wall · 39 min
- Full warm-up (floor and wall)3-5 min of light cardio, shoulder/hip/wrist mobility, then 6-10 very easy boulders.15 min
- Density boulderingAs many clean boulders 2-3 grades below your max as you can, 1-2 min rest.18 min
- Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
- SaturdayRest
- SundayRest
Put it in your planner
Add the plan and tick sessions off in the browser planner. It syncs to the iPhone app on the same account. It goes in with the session length and version you picked above.
Want it built around your climbing?
This plan is the same for everyone. Answer seven questions, including your grade and whether anything's sore, and get four weeks made from your answers.
About a minute