A power plan for boulderers, 2 days a week
Big moves are stopping you. Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.
2 sessions a week45, 60 or 90 minutes4 weeks, the last one lighter
The four weeks
Weeks one to three train explosive power, momentum and coordination on the same days, and each week asks a bit more of you. Week four is lighter: the same days with less work, so you start the next block fresh. The standard version leaves out the high-risk exercises. If you've bouldered for more than three years, climb 7A (V6) or harder, nothing is sore and you've campused feet-on before, pick Harder: it adds Campus contact hits.
Weeks 1 to 3
Week 2, one more try per move, or a bigger move. Week 3, your hardest moves of the block with the same number of tries. Stop at the first slow one.
- MondayRest
TuesdayOn the wall · 45 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min
- WednesdayRest
- ThursdayRest
FridayOn the wall · 45 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
- Jump into lock-offJump to catch a hold with your arm already bent 90 degrees.25 min
- SaturdayRest
- SundayRest
Week 4, lighter
- MondayRest
TuesdayOn the wall · 40 min
- Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
- Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
- Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
- WednesdayRest
- ThursdayRest
FridayOn the wall · 40 min
- Regeneration traverse (four stages)10 min of easy traversing in 4 stages of 2-3 min: footwork, body position, momentum, then speed.10 min
- Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
- Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
- SaturdayRest
- SundayRest
Weeks 1 to 3
Week 2, one more try per move, or a bigger move. Week 3, your hardest moves of the block with the same number of tries. Stop at the first slow one.
- MondayRest
TuesdayOn the wall · 59 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- No-impact dynos3 dyno set-ups, 5 jumps each: touch the target, let go before weighting it.14 min
- Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min
- WednesdayRest
- ThursdayRest
FridayOn the wall · 59 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
- No-impact dynos3 dyno set-ups, 5 jumps each: touch the target, let go before weighting it.14 min
- Jump into lock-offJump to catch a hold with your arm already bent 90 degrees.25 min
- SaturdayRest
- SundayRest
Week 4, lighter
- MondayRest
TuesdayOn the wall · 40 min
- Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
- Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
- Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
- WednesdayRest
- ThursdayRest
FridayOn the wall · 40 min
- Regeneration traverse (four stages)10 min of easy traversing in 4 stages of 2-3 min: footwork, body position, momentum, then speed.10 min
- Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
- Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
- SaturdayRest
- SundayRest
Weeks 1 to 3
Week 2, one more try per move, or a bigger move. Week 3, your hardest moves of the block with the same number of tries. Stop at the first slow one.
- MondayRest
TuesdayOn the wall · 57 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- Campus contact hits4 sets of 3-4 fast, precise catches per hand on big holds, 3 min rest.12 min
- Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min
- WednesdayRest
- ThursdayRest
FridayOn the wall · 59 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
- No-impact dynos3 dyno set-ups, 5 jumps each: touch the target, let go before weighting it.14 min
- Jump into lock-offJump to catch a hold with your arm already bent 90 degrees.25 min
- SaturdayRest
- SundayRest
Week 4, lighter
- MondayRest
TuesdayOn the wall · 40 min
- Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
- Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
- Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
- WednesdayRest
- ThursdayRest
FridayOn the wall · 40 min
- Regeneration traverse (four stages)10 min of easy traversing in 4 stages of 2-3 min: footwork, body position, momentum, then speed.10 min
- Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
- Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
- SaturdayRest
- SundayRest
Weeks 1 to 3
Week 2, one more try per move, or a bigger move. Week 3, your hardest moves of the block with the same number of tries. Stop at the first slow one.
- MondayRest
TuesdayOn the wall · 83 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- Deadpoint generators (hinge, pendulum, rock-over)3 deadpoint moves (hinge, pendulum, rock-over), 5 tries each, 45 s rest.18 min
- Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min
- Pulling maintenance3-4 sets of 3-5 clean pull-ups or 10 s lock-off holds, 2 min rest.10 min
- Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
- WednesdayRest
- ThursdayRest
FridayOn the wall · 82 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
- No-impact dynos3 dyno set-ups, 5 jumps each: touch the target, let go before weighting it.14 min
- Jump into lock-offJump to catch a hold with your arm already bent 90 degrees.25 min
- Explosive pull-ups5 sets of 3 pull-ups as fast and high as you can, 2-3 min rest.13 min
- Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
- SaturdayRest
- SundayRest
Week 4, lighter
- MondayRest
TuesdayOn the wall · 40 min
- Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
- Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
- Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
- WednesdayRest
- ThursdayRest
FridayOn the wall · 40 min
- Regeneration traverse (four stages)10 min of easy traversing in 4 stages of 2-3 min: footwork, body position, momentum, then speed.10 min
- Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
- Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
- SaturdayRest
- SundayRest
Weeks 1 to 3
Week 2, one more try per move, or a bigger move. Week 3, your hardest moves of the block with the same number of tries. Stop at the first slow one.
- MondayRest
TuesdayOn the wall · 77 min
- Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
- Campus contact hits4 sets of 3-4 fast, precise catches per hand on big holds, 3 min rest.12 min
- Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min
- Pulling maintenance3-4 sets of 3-5 clean pull-ups or 10 s lock-off holds, 2 min rest.10 min
- Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
- WednesdayRest
- ThursdayRest
FridayOn the wall · 82 min
- Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
- No-impact dynos3 dyno set-ups, 5 jumps each: touch the target, let go before weighting it.14 min
- Jump into lock-offJump to catch a hold with your arm already bent 90 degrees.25 min
- Explosive pull-ups5 sets of 3 pull-ups as fast and high as you can, 2-3 min rest.13 min
- Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
- SaturdayRest
- SundayRest
Week 4, lighter
- MondayRest
TuesdayOn the wall · 40 min
- Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
- Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
- Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
- WednesdayRest
- ThursdayRest
FridayOn the wall · 40 min
- Regeneration traverse (four stages)10 min of easy traversing in 4 stages of 2-3 min: footwork, body position, momentum, then speed.10 min
- Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
- Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
- SaturdayRest
- SundayRest
Put it in your planner
Add the plan and tick sessions off in the browser planner. The iPhone app uses the same account when it's out. It goes in with the session length and version you picked above.
Want it built around your climbing?
This plan is the same for everyone. Answer six questions, including your grade and whether anything's sore, and get four weeks made from your answers.
Six questions · about a minute