Warm-up on the wall

Who it's for

Everyone, before every climbing session, after a few minutes of general warm-up. It gets the fingers, forearms and footwork ready for harder climbing by building up bit by bit. For many people it's also where the day's technique practice happens: quiet feet and relaxed arms on easy ground carry over to harder climbing later. Keep it easy enough that the session still has your best efforts.

Common mistakes

• Starting too hard. Begin on the easiest problems on the wall, even if they feel beneath you. Cold fingers on a hard move are how pulleys get tweaked.
• Getting pumped. Stop before your forearms tighten. A warm-up that pumps you out leaves less for the session.
• Rushing between problems. Rest a little each time. Going back to back turns it into an endurance set.
• Climbing it sloppily. Easy problems are the best place to practise quiet feet and relaxed arms. Rushing through them wastes that chance.

How to progress

Make each problem a little harder than the last, finishing a few grades below your limit. Then do your session. The length changes with the day: 10 minutes is a normal default, 15 to 20 for a limit session or a cold gym, and 5 when you're already warm from a general warm-up. Over time, give it a focus, like silent feet or straight arms, and it doubles as technique practice.