Attempt analysis
After every fall, name what stopped you and pick one change before the next attempt.
- Slot
- Mental and reflection
- Focus
- Reflection
- Time
- 15 min
- Intensity
- Low intensity
- Injury risk
- Low injury risk
- Equipment
- Boulders, Notebook
How to do it
After you fall, before your next go: name out loud (or write down) the actual limiting factor - strength, a footwork error, bad timing, or hesitation. Decide on one specific change, not three. Rest long enough to attempt it fresh, and only get back on once you know exactly what you're doing differently. Getting back on without a clear plan just repeats the same fall.
Want this in a plan? Seven questions and you get a plan built around your climbing.
Take the quizWho it's for
The thirty seconds after a fall, which is when most climbers decide nothing and get straight back on. Naming the limiting factor before the next go is what turns attempts into practice.
Common mistakes
- Three changes at once. One. Otherwise you can't tell what worked.
- Getting back on before you've decided. That's the same attempt again.
- Always blaming strength. Sometimes true, usually not. Footwork, timing and hesitation account for more falls.
How to progress
Do it out loud with a partner, who will often see something different. Over a few sessions the pattern in your answers is worth more than any single one.
When it fits
The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.
Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.
Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.
Power Endurance Keep your power through one hard move after another.
Endurance Climb longer before you pump out, by moving efficiently.
Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.
Deload Train less, let your fingers recover, keep moving.