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Goal setting

Write an outcome goal with a date, a process goal, one weekly habit, and this week's action.

Slot
Mental and reflection
Focus
Reflection
Time
15 min
Intensity
Low intensity
Injury risk
Low injury risk
Equipment
Notebook

How to do it

Write down: an outcome goal with a realistic date (the result you want, e.g. 'flash 7A by December'); a process goal (something fully in your control, e.g. 'warm up fully before every session'); one measurable habit to track weekly (e.g. 'two finger sessions a week'); any real constraints (gym access, injuries, other commitments); and the one concrete thing you'll do this week. Check the process goal and habit weekly, and only revisit the outcome goal at the end of the block.

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Who it's for

Anyone training without knowing what for. The process goal and the weekly habit are the useful parts: they're the bits you control.

Common mistakes

  • Only writing an outcome goal. A grade by a date isn't something you can do on Tuesday.
  • A habit you can't measure. 'Train harder' isn't trackable. 'Two finger sessions a week' is.
  • Revisiting the outcome goal weekly. Check the process and the habit weekly, the outcome at the end of the block.

How to progress

Review it at the end of every block. If the habit held and the outcome didn't arrive, the goal was wrong, not you.

When it fits

The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.

  • Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.

  • Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.

  • Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.

  • Power Endurance Keep your power through one hard move after another.

  • Endurance Climb longer before you pump out, by moving efficiently.

  • Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.

  • Deload Train less, let your fingers recover, keep moving.