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Band face pulls and external rotation

3 rounds of 12 face pulls, 12 external rotations per side, and 15 pull-aparts. Light band.

Slot
Strength
Focus
Stability
Time
10 min
Intensity
Low
Injury risk
Low
Intervals
3 rounds, 1:00 rest
Equipment
Resistance band

How to do it

Attach a light resistance band at face height. Do 3 rounds of: 12 face pulls (pull the band toward your face with elbows high and wide), 12 external rotations per side (elbow bent 90 degrees at your side, rotate the forearm outward), and 15 band pull-aparts (straight arms at chest height, pull the band apart). Rest 1 minute between rounds. Use a band light enough that every rep stays slow and precise.

Who it’s for

Shoulder health for climbers who pull a lot and push almost never. Ten minutes, three rounds, no risk, and it’s the work most likely to keep you climbing in ten years.

Common mistakes

  • Too heavy a band. Light enough that every rep is slow and precise. Heavy bands turn it into a shrug.
  • Elbows dropping on the face pulls. Elbows high and wide. Low elbows make it a row.
  • Rushing the rotations. Elbow stays pinned at your side, forearm rotates out slowly.
  • Doing it once a fortnight. Twice a week, every week, or it does nothing.

How to progress

Add a round rather than band strength, then slow the tempo. If you want to load it properly, cable or dumbbell versions of the same movements are the next step, but only once the pattern is clean.

When it fits

The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.

  • Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.
  • Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
  • Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.
  • Power Endurance Keep your power through one hard move after another.
  • Endurance Climb longer before you pump out, by moving efficiently.
  • Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.
  • Deload Train less, let your fingers recover, keep moving.

Start with a ready-made block

A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.