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Band reaches

3 holds of 60 s pressing out on a band looped around both wrists, arms straight ahead, 45 s rest.

Slot
Strength
Focus
Stability
Time
5 min
Intensity
Low
Injury risk
Low
Intervals
3 × 1:00 on, 45s off
Equipment
Resistance band, Timer

How to do it

Loop a light resistance band around both wrists. Hold your arms straight out in front at shoulder width, palms facing each other, and press your wrists outward against the band so it's taut. Hold that tension for 60 seconds without letting the arms drift in or the shoulders creep up toward your ears. Rest 45 seconds; 3 holds. Once that's easy, turn your palms up and hold the arms higher, working toward overhead, which brings in the muscles that turn the shoulder blade for reaching. Good before climbing: The Climbing Doctor prescribes it as a 1-minute isometric, up to three times a day.

Who it’s for

Climbers who spend their sessions pulling, with shoulders that round forward. It works the muscles that hold the shoulder blade in place when you reach, and it’s easy enough to do before climbing.

Common mistakes

  • Letting the arms drift inward. Keep pressing out the whole hold. When the band goes slack, the hold stopped working.
  • Shrugging. Shoulders down, away from your ears. That’s harder than it sounds at the end of the hold.
  • Using a band that’s too strong. A light band is enough. If you can’t keep the arms straight, go lighter.
  • Bending the elbows. Arms straight, or the pressure moves away from the shoulder.

How to progress

Turn your palms up and raise the arms higher, a little at a time, until you’re holding the tension overhead. Only go higher when you can still keep the shoulders down.

When it fits

The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.

  • Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.
  • Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
  • Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.
  • Power Endurance Keep your power through one hard move after another.
  • Endurance Climb longer before you pump out, by moving efficiently.
  • Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.
  • Deload Train less, let your fingers recover, keep moving.

Start with a ready-made block

A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.