Contact strength primer
After a general warm-up: easy reaches, 5 deadpoints, then 4-6 quick catches on big holds.
- Slot
- Warm-up
- Focus
- Power
- Time
- 10 min
- Intensity
- Moderate intensity
- Injury risk
- Moderate injury risk
- Equipment
- Campus board, Training board
How to do it
Only after a general warm-up. On big holds with your feet on, do a few easy long reaches, then 5 controlled deadpoints (small dynamic moves where your feet stay on), then 4-6 fast, snappy catches to large holds. Rest 1 minute between each part. Stop before your fingers or skin start to feel worked.
Run it now
The same timer as the app: a five-second get-ready, then every round and rest counted down with a beep. Keep this page open while you train.
Contact strength primer
0:00 / 10:05
Ready
10:05
3 rounds
After a general warm-up: easy reaches, 5 deadpoints, then 4-6 quick catches on big holds.
High risk: read the protocol, stop if anything feels wrong.
- 3
- rounds
- 1:00
- rest
- 10:05
- total
Done.
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Take the quizWho it's for
Power sessions and hard board days, once you're already warm. It teaches the fingers to switch on fast, which is what a snappy move needs.
Common mistakes
- Doing it as your warm-up. It says it in the prescription: only after a general warm-up. Fast catches on cold fingers are how people get hurt.
- Making the moves big. Small, controlled deadpoints and short catches to big holds. Size comes later, in the session.
- Loud catches. A quiet catch is a strong one. Slapping means you're arriving late.
- Continuing once the skin or fingers feel worked. Stop early. You've come to switch on, not to train.
How to progress
Move to slightly worse target holds rather than longer moves, and keep the volume the same. If your fingers feel tired at the end of this, it was too much for a primer.
When it fits
The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.
Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.
Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.