A power plan for boulderers, 4 days a week

Week 2, one more try per move, or a bigger move. Week 3, your hardest moves of the block with the same number of tries. Stop at the first slow one.

1. MondayOn the wall · 45 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 38 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Deadpoint generators (hinge, pendulum, rock-over)3 deadpoint moves (hinge, pendulum, rock-over), 5 tries each, 45 s rest.18 min
   • Push-up plus3 sets of 10-15 push-ups with a plus at the top: push the floor away so the shoulder blades spread.5 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 45 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Jump into lock-offJump to catch a hold with your arm already bent 90 degrees.25 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 41 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • Dyno practice4-5 short dynos to big holds, 5 tries each, 1-2 min rest.26 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 45 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Regeneration traverse (four stages)10 min of easy traversing in 4 stages of 2-3 min: footwork, body position, momentum, then speed.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest

Week 2, one more try per move, or a bigger move. Week 3, your hardest moves of the block with the same number of tries. Stop at the first slow one.

1. MondayOn the wall · 59 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • No-impact dynos3 dyno set-ups, 5 jumps each: touch the target, let go before weighting it.14 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 56 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Deadpoint generators (hinge, pendulum, rock-over)3 deadpoint moves (hinge, pendulum, rock-over), 5 tries each, 45 s rest.18 min
   • Push-up plus3 sets of 10-15 push-ups with a plus at the top: push the floor away so the shoulder blades spread.5 min
   • Hanging leg raises / toes-to-bar4 sets of 6-10 slow hanging leg raises, 90 s rest.8 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 59 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • No-impact dynos3 dyno set-ups, 5 jumps each: touch the target, let go before weighting it.14 min
   • Jump into lock-offJump to catch a hold with your arm already bent 90 degrees.25 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 56 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • Dyno practice4-5 short dynos to big holds, 5 tries each, 1-2 min rest.26 min
   • Band external rotation (90 degrees abducted)3 sets of 8 rotations per arm with a light band, elbow up at shoulder height, 1 min rest.5 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 45 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Regeneration traverse (four stages)10 min of easy traversing in 4 stages of 2-3 min: footwork, body position, momentum, then speed.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest

Week 2, one more try per move, or a bigger move. Week 3, your hardest moves of the block with the same number of tries. Stop at the first slow one.

1. MondayOn the wall · 57 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Campus contact hits4 sets of 3-4 fast, precise catches per hand on big holds, 3 min rest.12 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 56 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Deadpoint generators (hinge, pendulum, rock-over)3 deadpoint moves (hinge, pendulum, rock-over), 5 tries each, 45 s rest.18 min
   • Push-up plus3 sets of 10-15 push-ups with a plus at the top: push the floor away so the shoulder blades spread.5 min
   • Hanging leg raises / toes-to-bar4 sets of 6-10 slow hanging leg raises, 90 s rest.8 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 59 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • No-impact dynos3 dyno set-ups, 5 jumps each: touch the target, let go before weighting it.14 min
   • Jump into lock-offJump to catch a hold with your arm already bent 90 degrees.25 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 56 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • Dyno practice4-5 short dynos to big holds, 5 tries each, 1-2 min rest.26 min
   • Band external rotation (90 degrees abducted)3 sets of 8 rotations per arm with a light band, elbow up at shoulder height, 1 min rest.5 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 45 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Regeneration traverse (four stages)10 min of easy traversing in 4 stages of 2-3 min: footwork, body position, momentum, then speed.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest

Week 2, one more try per move, or a bigger move. Week 3, your hardest moves of the block with the same number of tries. Stop at the first slow one.

1. MondayOn the wall · 83 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Deadpoint generators (hinge, pendulum, rock-over)3 deadpoint moves (hinge, pendulum, rock-over), 5 tries each, 45 s rest.18 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min
   • Pulling maintenance3-4 sets of 3-5 clean pull-ups or 10 s lock-off holds, 2 min rest.10 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 56 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Deadpoint generators (hinge, pendulum, rock-over)3 deadpoint moves (hinge, pendulum, rock-over), 5 tries each, 45 s rest.18 min
   • Push-up plus3 sets of 10-15 push-ups with a plus at the top: push the floor away so the shoulder blades spread.5 min
   • Hanging leg raises / toes-to-bar4 sets of 6-10 slow hanging leg raises, 90 s rest.8 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 82 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • No-impact dynos3 dyno set-ups, 5 jumps each: touch the target, let go before weighting it.14 min
   • Jump into lock-offJump to catch a hold with your arm already bent 90 degrees.25 min
   • Explosive pull-ups5 sets of 3 pull-ups as fast and high as you can, 2-3 min rest.13 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 61 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • Dyno practice4-5 short dynos to big holds, 5 tries each, 1-2 min rest.26 min
   • Band external rotation (90 degrees abducted)3 sets of 8 rotations per arm with a light band, elbow up at shoulder height, 1 min rest.5 min
   • Hollow body hold4 holds of 20 s, 1 min rest.5 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 45 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Regeneration traverse (four stages)10 min of easy traversing in 4 stages of 2-3 min: footwork, body position, momentum, then speed.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest

Week 2, one more try per move, or a bigger move. Week 3, your hardest moves of the block with the same number of tries. Stop at the first slow one.

1. MondayOn the wall · 77 min

   • Boulder and hang rampGradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.15 min
   • Campus contact hits4 sets of 3-4 fast, precise catches per hand on big holds, 3 min rest.12 min
   • Limit movement bite3-4 hard single moves or 2-move links, 3-5 min rest between every attempt.30 min
   • Pulling maintenance3-4 sets of 3-5 clean pull-ups or 10 s lock-off holds, 2 min rest.10 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 56 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Deadpoint generators (hinge, pendulum, rock-over)3 deadpoint moves (hinge, pendulum, rock-over), 5 tries each, 45 s rest.18 min
   • Push-up plus3 sets of 10-15 push-ups with a plus at the top: push the floor away so the shoulder blades spread.5 min
   • Hanging leg raises / toes-to-bar4 sets of 6-10 slow hanging leg raises, 90 s rest.8 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 82 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • No-impact dynos3 dyno set-ups, 5 jumps each: touch the target, let go before weighting it.14 min
   • Jump into lock-offJump to catch a hold with your arm already bent 90 degrees.25 min
   • Explosive pull-ups5 sets of 3 pull-ups as fast and high as you can, 2-3 min rest.13 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 61 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • Dyno practice4-5 short dynos to big holds, 5 tries each, 1-2 min rest.26 min
   • Band external rotation (90 degrees abducted)3 sets of 8 rotations per arm with a light band, elbow up at shoulder height, 1 min rest.5 min
   • Hollow body hold4 holds of 20 s, 1 min rest.5 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 45 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Quiet climbing6-8 boulders you can climb first try, with silent hands and feet.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 40 min

   • Regeneration traverse (four stages)10 min of easy traversing in 4 stages of 2-3 min: footwork, body position, momentum, then speed.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 40 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Climb with flow4-5 easy boulders, 3 times each, linking moves with your hips without pausing.20 min
   • Forearm flush5 bouts of 90 s very easy climbing, 30 s rest.10 min
7. SundayRest