Boulder and hang ramp
Gradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.
- Slot
- Warm-up
- Focus
- Power
- Time
- 15 min
- Intensity
- Moderate intensity
- Injury risk
- Moderate injury risk
- Equipment
- Boulders, 20 mm edge, Timer
A 20 mm edge is a hangboard edge about as deep as the pad of your fingertip.
How to do it
Climb boulders that get harder step by step, up to just below the difficulty of your main session. Then do 2-3 short, strong hangs on a 20 mm edge, well below max, resting 2-3 minutes between them. You should feel ready, not tired. To finish on hard moves instead of hangs, use the progressive limit boulder ramp.
Run it now
The same timer as the app: a five-second get-ready, then every round and rest counted down with a beep. Keep this page open while you train.
Boulder and hang ramp
0:00 / 15:05
Ready
15:05
2 rounds
Gradually harder boulders, then 2-3 submax hangs on a 20 mm edge, 2-3 min rest.
High risk: read the protocol, stop if anything feels wrong.
- 2
- rounds
- 2:00
- rest
- 15:05
- total
Done.
Want this inside a plan? Take the quiz.
Seven questions about your climbing, then a plan built from your answers. Free.
Want this in a plan? Seven questions and you get a plan built around your climbing.
Take the quizWho it's for
Power sessions and limit days, where the nervous system needs waking up as much as the muscles do. Finishing on a couple of submax hangs is what makes it specific: your fingers take their first real load before the session asks for it.
Common mistakes
- Going to max in the warm-up. Submax hangs, well below max. Save it.
- Short rests. Two to three minutes between the hangs.
- Ramping too fast. Step by step. Jumping straight to just-below-session difficulty isn't a ramp.
How to progress
You should finish ready, not tired. If you're tired, cut the volume rather than the intensity, since it's the intensity that does the priming.
When it fits
The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.
Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.
Power Endurance Keep your power through one hard move after another.
Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.