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Wrist flexor eccentrics

3 sets of 8-15 slow palm-up wrist lowers per hand, 5 s each, 1 min rest. The other hand lifts.

Slot
Strength
Focus
Stability
Time
8 min
Intensity
Low
Injury risk
Low
Intervals
3 rounds, 1:00 rest
Equipment
Dumbbell

How to do it

The inner-elbow twin of wrist extensor eccentrics. Sit with your forearm on your thigh, palm up and hand past your knee, holding a light dumbbell. Curl the wrist up, then lower over at least 5 seconds: first the wrist bends back, then let the fingers open until the dumbbell rests in your fingertips. Use your other hand to lift it back to the start, so the working side only does the lowering. 8-15 reps per hand, 3 sets, 1 minute rest. More than 15 means the weight's too light; fewer than 8 means it's too heavy. Every other day, and not while the forearm is still sore.

Who it’s for

Anyone with an aching inner elbow, and anyone doing wrist extensor eccentrics who wants the other side of the forearm covered too. Climbing loads these muscles constantly, but rarely through a slow lowering with the wrist and fingers opening out.

Common mistakes

  • Lifting with the working hand. Use your other hand to bring the dumbbell back up. The working side only does the lowering.
  • Lowering too fast. Take the full time down. If you can’t, the weight is too heavy.
  • Losing the dumbbell off the fingertips. Let the fingers open under control. If it rolls out of your hand, go lighter.
  • Lifting the forearm off your thigh. Only the wrist and fingers move. The forearm stays down.
  • Stopping when it feels better. Tendons take months. Keep going after the ache fades.

How to progress

Let the rep range tell you when to add weight, in small steps. If you’re using it for a sore elbow rather than prevention, light regular work usually suits it better than heavy sessions, and a physio’s opinion is worth getting.

When it fits

The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.

  • Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.
  • Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
  • Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.
  • Power Endurance Keep your power through one hard move after another.
  • Endurance Climb longer before you pump out, by moving efficiently.
  • Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.
  • Deload Train less, let your fingers recover, keep moving.

Start with a ready-made block

A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.