Dyno practice
4-5 short dynos to big holds, 5 tries each, 1-2 min rest.
- Slot
- On the wall
- Focus
- Power
- Time
- 20 min
- Intensity
- High
- Injury risk
- Moderate
- Equipment
- Boulders
How to do it
A dyno is a jump where both feet (and usually both hands) leave the wall to catch a hold. On a steep wall, pick a short jump from two good holds to a big hold. Sink low with straight arms, then drive with your legs and pull at the same time, aiming your hips toward the target. Look at the hold the whole time and catch it at the top of the jump. Do 4-5 different dynos, 5 tries each, resting 1-2 minutes between tries. Make the jumps longer only when the catches feel controlled.
When it fits
Training periods this block is tagged for in Blok Sessions.
- Base Build repeatable volume, movement quality and aerobic capacity.
- Strength Increase pulling and finger strength with controlled load.
- Power Develop explosive power, momentum and coordination.
- Power Endurance Sustain power output across repeated hard efforts.
- Performance Peak for outcomes with mental focus and route reading.
- Deload Reduce load, restore tissue and mobility, stay moving.