Dyno practice
4-5 short dynos to big holds, 5 tries each, 1-2 min rest.
- Slot
- On the wall
- Focus
- Power
- Time
- 26 min
- Intensity
- High intensity
- Injury risk
- Moderate injury risk
- Equipment
- Boulders
How to do it
A dyno is a jump where both feet (and usually both hands) leave the wall to catch a hold. On a steep wall, pick a short jump from two good holds to a big hold. Sink low with straight arms, then drive with your legs and pull at the same time, aiming your hips toward the target. Look at the hold the whole time and catch it at the top of the jump. Do 4-5 different dynos, 5 tries each, resting 1-2 minutes between tries. Make the jumps longer only when the catches feel controlled.
Run it now
The same timer as the app: a five-second get-ready, then every round and rest counted down with a beep. Keep this page open while you train.
Dyno practice
0:00 / 25:45
Ready
25:45
20 rounds
4-5 short dynos to big holds, 5 tries each, 1-2 min rest.
High risk: read the protocol, stop if anything feels wrong.
- 20
- rounds
- 1:00
- rest
- 25:45
- total
Done.
Want this inside a plan? Take the quiz.
Seven questions about your climbing, then a plan built from your answers. Free.
Want this in a plan? Seven questions and you get a plan built around your climbing.
Take the quizWho it's for
Anyone who gets shut down by a single jump on comp-style problems, and anyone whose gym sets a lot of modern coordination movement. It's a skill before it's a power exercise.
Common mistakes
- Pulling with the arms first. The legs drive; the arms guide. If your biceps are tired after a dyno session you jumped with the wrong half of your body.
- Bending the arms in the sink. Sink low with straight arms so the legs load properly, then fire.
- Watching the wrong thing. Eyes on the target hold from before you leave until after you catch. Looking at your feet or the hold you're leaving is the single most common reason people miss.
- Chasing distance. A dyno you catch and then drop is a failed rep. Control first, length second.
- Doing them tired. Explosive work at the end of a session is just injury risk with no stimulus.
How to progress
Same jump to a smaller hold before the same hold from further away. Then add a swing to control on the catch, then a foot-cut-and-restick. Then stop practising in isolation and take it into real problems.
When it fits
The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.
Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.
Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.
Power Endurance Keep your power through one hard move after another.
Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.
Deload Train less, let your fingers recover, keep moving.