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Hard projecting

6 boulders at your limit, about 10 min each. At least 3 min rest between attempts.

Slot
On the wall
Focus
Finger strength
Time
60 min
Intensity
Max
Injury risk
Moderate
Intervals
6 × 10:00 on
Equipment
Boulders, Timer

How to do it

Pick 6 boulders at or just above your limit. Spend about 10 minutes on each: try different beta (sequences), rest at least 3 minutes between attempts, and after every attempt decide what to change before trying again. Move on after 10 minutes, even if you haven't sent.

Who it’s for

Working at your limit with a structure that stops you burning an hour on one boulder. Ten minutes each, then move, whether you sent or not.

Common mistakes

  • Repeating the same attempt. Decide what you’ll change before each go. Otherwise you’re just tiring yourself out.
  • Short rests. At least three minutes. Limit attempts need to be fresh.
  • Staying past ten minutes. Move on. That’s the rule that makes the session work.

How to progress

Harder boulders, or fewer boulders with longer on each. If you’re sending most of them inside ten minutes, they aren’t limit problems.

When it fits

The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.

  • Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
  • Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.
  • Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.

Start with a ready-made block

A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.