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Finger extensor band opens

3 sets of 20-25 finger opens per hand against a light band, 30 s rest.

Slot
Strength
Focus
Stability
Time
6 min
Intensity
Low
Injury risk
Low
Intervals
3 rounds, 30s rest
Equipment
Finger extensor band, Rubber band

How to do it

Put a rubber band (or finger extensor band) around the tips of your fingers and thumb. Open your hand wide against the band, then close it slowly. Do 20-25 reps per hand, 3 sets, with 30 seconds rest. Keep your wrist relaxed. Use it before climbing as a warm-up, or after to balance out all the pulling.

Who it’s for

Balancing all the closing your fingers do. It’s six minutes with a rubber band and it’s the cheapest elbow and finger insurance available.

Common mistakes

  • A band that’s too strong. Twenty to twenty-five reps should be doable with control. A tight band turns it into ten reps and a cramp.
  • Tensing the wrist. Wrist relaxed. The movement is the fingers opening, nothing else.
  • Snapping closed. Open wide, close slowly. Both directions are controlled.
  • Only doing it when the elbow already hurts. Regular and easy beats occasional and desperate.

How to progress

Add a set or move to a slightly stronger band, but keep the reps in the twenties. Doing it as part of a warm-up and again after climbing is more useful than one longer session.

When it fits

The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.

  • Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.
  • Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
  • Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.
  • Power Endurance Keep your power through one hard move after another.
  • Endurance Climb longer before you pump out, by moving efficiently.
  • Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.
  • Deload Train less, let your fingers recover, keep moving.

Start with a ready-made block

A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.