Finger extensor band opens
3 sets of 20-25 finger opens per hand against a light band, 30 s rest.
- Slot
- Strength
- Focus
- Stability
- Time
- 6 min
- Intensity
- Low intensity
- Injury risk
- Low injury risk
- Equipment
- Finger extensor band
How to do it
Put a rubber band (or finger extensor band) around the tips of your fingers and thumb. Open your hand wide against the band, then close it slowly. Do 20-25 reps per hand, 3 sets, with 30 seconds rest. Keep your wrist relaxed. Use it before climbing as a warm-up, or after to balance out all the pulling.
Run it now
The same timer as the app: a five-second get-ready, then every round and rest counted down with a beep. Keep this page open while you train.
Finger extensor band opens
0:00 / 6:05
Ready
6:05
3 rounds
3 sets of 20-25 finger opens per hand against a light band, 30 s rest.
High risk: read the protocol, stop if anything feels wrong.
- 3
- rounds
- 30s
- rest
- 6:05
- total
Done.
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Take the quizWho it's for
Balancing all the closing your fingers do. It's six minutes with a rubber band and it's the cheapest elbow and finger insurance available.
Common mistakes
- A band that's too strong. Twenty to twenty-five reps should be doable with control. A tight band turns it into ten reps and a cramp.
- Tensing the wrist. Wrist relaxed. The movement is the fingers opening, nothing else.
- Snapping closed. Open wide, close slowly. Both directions are controlled.
- Only doing it when the elbow already hurts. Regular and easy beats occasional and desperate.
How to progress
Add a set or move to a slightly stronger band, but keep the reps in the twenties. Doing it as part of a warm-up and again after climbing is more useful than one longer session.
When it fits
The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.
Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.
Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
Power Explosive moves, momentum and coordination.
Power Endurance Keep your power through one hard move after another.
Endurance Climb longer before you pump out, by moving efficiently.
Performance Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.
Deload Train less, let your fingers recover, keep moving.