Half-crimp 7/3 repeaters
3 sets of 6 x (7 s hang, 3 s off), 3 min between sets. Add a set each session, up to 5.
- Slot
- Strength
- Focus
- Finger strength
- Time
- 9 min
- Intensity
- High intensity
- Injury risk
- High injury risk
- Equipment
- 20 mm edge, Timer
A 20 mm edge is a hangboard edge about as deep as the pad of your fingertip.
High injury risk. Only do this fully warmed up, rested and injury-free, and stop at the first sign of pain in your fingers or elbows. Training is at your own risk.
How to do it
Only after a full warm-up. On a hangboard edge (e.g. 20 mm), hang in a half crimp (fingers bent about 90 degrees at the middle knuckle, thumb off). Hang 7 seconds, rest 3 seconds, and repeat 6 times. That's one 1-minute set. Rest 3 minutes between sets. Start with 3 sets and add one each session until you're doing 5, then add load instead of sets. Choose the load (add weight, or take weight off with a foot on a chair or a pulley) so the last hang of each set is hard, but you could still hold on a second or two longer.
Run it now
The same timer as the app: a five-second get-ready, then every round and rest counted down with a beep. Keep this page open while you train.
Half-crimp 7/3 repeaters
0:00 / 8:56
Ready
8:56
3 sets of 6
3 sets of 6 x (7 s hang, 3 s off), 3 min between sets. Add a set each session, up to 5.
High risk: read the protocol, stop if anything feels wrong.
- 3 × 6
- sets × hangs
- 7s
- hang
- 3s
- rest
- 3:00
- set rest
- 8:56
- total
Done.
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Take the quizWho it's for
Building finger endurance in the position that most small holds ask for. Repeaters sit between max hangs and climbing: more total time under load, less peak force.
Common mistakes
- Letting the last hangs drift open. Half crimp for all six, or pick a lighter load. A set that turns into a drag halfway is training something you didn't plan.
- Thumb on. Thumb off the edge. Thumb-on crimping loads the finger pulleys much harder.
- Cutting the three seconds. Three seconds off, not five. The short rest is what makes it a repeater.
- Choosing a load you can only just survive. The last hang of each set should be hard and clean, not a fight.
How to progress
Add a set before you add load, up to five. Once that's comfortable, take a small amount of weight off the pulley or add a couple of kilos. Two sessions a week is the ceiling for most people.
When it fits
The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.
Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
Power Endurance Keep your power through one hard move after another.