Half-crimp 7/3 repeaters
5 sets of 6 x (7 s hang, 3 s off), 3 min rest between sets.
- Slot
- Strength
- Focus
- Finger strength
- Time
- 17 min
- Intensity
- High
- Injury risk
- High
- Intervals
- 30 × 7s on, 3s off
- Equipment
- Edge 20mm, Timer
How to do it
Only after a full warm-up. On a hangboard edge (e.g. 20 mm), hang in a half crimp (fingers bent about 90 degrees at the middle knuckle, thumb off). Hang 7 seconds, rest 3 seconds, and repeat 6 times - that's one 1-minute set. Rest 3 minutes. Do 5 sets. Choose the load (add weight, or take weight off with a foot on a chair or a pulley) so the last hang of each set is hard but still clean.
High injury risk. Only do this fully warmed up, rested and injury-free, and stop at the first sign of pain in your fingers or elbows. Training is at your own risk.
Who it’s for
Building finger endurance in the position that most small holds ask for. Repeaters sit between max hangs and climbing: more total time under load, less peak force.
Common mistakes
- Letting the last hangs drift open. Half crimp for all six, or pick a lighter load. A set that turns into a drag halfway is training something you didn’t plan.
- Thumb on. Thumb off the edge. Thumb-on crimping loads the finger pulleys much harder.
- Cutting the three seconds. Three seconds off, not five. The short rest is what makes it a repeater.
- Choosing a load you can only just survive. The last hang of each set should be hard and clean, not a fight.
How to progress
Add a set before you add load, up to five or six. Once that’s comfortable, take a small amount of weight off the pulley or add a couple of kilos. Two sessions a week is the ceiling for most people.
When it fits
The training periods this exercise fits into in Blok Sessions.
- Base Lots of easy climbing, good movement and aerobic fitness.
- Strength Stronger fingers and pulling, with weight you control.
- Power Endurance Keep your power through one hard move after another.
Related blocks
Start with a ready-made block
A six-week strength plan with a deload, as a file for the app, and seven short emails on how to run it.